Visas for Togo/Benin, Well Endowed Generator, Back to States for The Bean Dog, Rollin Business Class (Accra, Ghana)

Bella Bean Dog

Of course I met up with Obehi again and yes he was still in the room next to me.  A new café run by a super nice German woman opened on the main drag while I was gone. It’s on the way down to the beach and called the Hayford Lounge.  Over the next couple days I would spend quite a bit of time here eating amazing food and getting out of the heat which is on the rise. 

Only back in Cape Coast for a couple days then heading back to Accra so I can get a visa or two and to cross the border into Togo.  I will miss Cape Coast.  I absolutely recommend a visit here.  I think it might be required when you visit Ghana.

A short taxi ride or medium walk is a place that has Ford Mini Vans with AC and comfy seats that head to Accra.  The price of a Tro to Accra would be 6 Cedi (US$3) and the mini vans are 15 (US$8).  The lap of luxury for me today; this would be considered a No Fanice Ride.  The people who take the mini vans are businessmen, students at university, and a couple well-dressed women.  Instead of basic cell phones they all have smart phones too I noticed.  One other interesting thing about this nice ride is that there are no Road Evangelist for a safe trip.  I guess it is no necessary to be blessed if you ride in a vehicle that meets safety standards.

I didn’t end up making a reservation in Accra and the couple places I called during the ride were full.  Oops.  These mini vans drop off a bit further from the city center.  I found a taxi and got a price set a bit higher than usual because I will have to have this guy drive me around and wait while I run into places until I find somewhere to rest my head. 

I want to stay in Osu this time.  Osu is the heart of the city dinning, shopping and nightlife.  There are a lot of expats living here because of all the food options I am assuming.  The hotels are also about 20-30% higher.  I did find a place for 60 Cedi (US$30) a night and I can’t remember the name of it at the moment.  Great rooms with bathroom and killer ac, flat screen and breakfast in the morning.  The great thing and what I have learned you look for is how big their generator is.  Even though the power is on more regularly now that Nigeria turned the power back on it still goes out a lot.  The place was well endowed in the generator department.

I will hang in Accra for about four days in order to pick up a visa for Benin and Togo.  I plan to enjoy the bustle of Osu District and maybe do a day trip somewhere…but for now it is off to bed for me. 

Oh, and I did go ahead and have dinner at the hotel…the only thing they had was chicken and rice but as it turned out it was delish.

NEXT DAY

Today I just wandered around Osu and had a long lunch with a couple coffees as the cutest little café while I watched the world go by.  Honestly nothing to write about. 

It was around 7ish when I got back and I decided to write in my journal and do some photo stuff while I kicked back with a couple beers.  There was a guy the night before having the same dinner as me but we didn’t chat.  I assumed he has working in Accra or Ghana in general as he just had that air about him…. looked to be late 40’s or early 50’s.

Tonight we decided to have our beers together and I was right late 40’s and has been working in Africa; mostly Ghana for about 20 years.   Like many Brits that have  spent a long time in Africa going back to the UK always takes adjusting to.  It seems a lot of expats just end up staying in Africa in the end.

Over the next couple days we hang out quite a bit wander Osu and Accra in general.  I did check out his new pad once and meet a couple of his friends that are also living there.  The apartments are pretty big…. huge living room, 2 bedrooms and bathroom and big kitchen…Paul’s apartment is on the second floor so he has a wrap around balcony too.  All these places are gated communities that you have to be buzzed into and an outer gate opens for you.  There is also a killer pool and bbq area.   That’s the life.  You would think that even a place like that would be reasonable in Ghana but no…. I think Paul said he pays 2,000 to 2,500 for it

Paul and I spent the next couple of days hanging out eating and chatting. 

Bella Bean at rest

I talked to my mother today and she said that Bella is super skinny and hasn’t eaten in a couple days.  After some time thinking about it I have decided to try and get back to Colorado so I can be the one to put her down.  She is my baby and knowing that I have time to get to her and maybe even spend a bit of quality time before the end makes it an easy decision especially since I have done a number of flights with frequent flyer points so far.  I will have to buy a ticket to come back and continue my journey but for now all I am thinking about is getting out of Accra and to my dog.

I found a frequent flyer flight in business class leaving tomorrow and after lots of talk on the phone with a representative (I had to trade in my Congo ticket and use most of the rest of my points) I got booked for tomorrow night’s flight.  I won’t know that I have a seat for sure until morning but there you go.  I spent the rest of the day wondering if I did the wrong thing by doing my trip when Bella was getting so old.  I realized that I couldn’t beat myself up about it.  Bella has had a spectacular life and it’s not like I left her at a kennel for two months…she has been with loving family.  I just hope I get at least a few days with her.

Paul and I went out for delicious Indian food tonight.  Actually one of the best I have had anywhere.   If I get back to Accra I have to hit this place up again.

The next day I just killed time until my flight.  Paul drove me to the airport.  It is a very odd feeling to be leaving.  I am almost two months into my trip and I am not ready for it to end but I want to get back.  Sometimes I am ready to head back from one of my big Sabbatical for several reasons.  I do love and miss my family and I am usually out of money. 

This time I am going back for only one reason; to end the life of my beloved dog. 

Rolling Business Class again.  Note to self:  I need to write a entry on how to get Business class for less than Economy when using Frequent Flyer points. 

I must admit that rollin back in business class does make the hurt a bit easier to bare.  Sipping champagne in a fully reclined position while stuffing my face with gourmet food gives me time to think about how amazing my dog is and how lucky I am to have found her.  Instead of dwelling on the fact that I am about to lose her I decide to think about all the  awesome times and how much fuller she made my life.  She is 15 and old age is unavoidable.

I am back and I will get several beautiful weeks with my baby dog.  Taking a break from my trip and losing a chunk of money is nothing to me now.  I would have been absolutely heartbroken if I had not come back. 

Good Bye Beyin, 3 Tro Tro/One Fan Ice Kinda Day, Big Blue Yutong Short Bus, Big Boobs and Yutong Preacher (Beyin, Ghana)

AND ANOTHER NEXT DAY

good bye Beyin

There are two choices for leaving Beyin.  There is a direct tro tro to Takaradi at 4am.  What, 4am, hell no.  I would rather take 5 tro tros and accidentally end up in Cote d’Ivoire than leave at 4am. 

As you might have guessed I choose the long way.  I had to take a tro tro to the ‘cross roads’ so I headed out with my pack in that direction just waiting to flag down the next tro heading my way.  Some guys at a chop bar told me to grab a tro going the other direction into the next town where I would get on another to Takaradi.  Apparently it takes longer to get to the town as you are backtracking but there is more chance of catching a ride.  Decided to kinda hang out and to just jump on the next tro no matter which direction it was heading.  The longer way won. 

The first tro took maybe 45 minute to get to somewhere.  There I jumped off and jumped on one going to Takaradi.  As usual the locals on my first tro made sure I was set up on the next one before they left.  It’s an entire country of nice people.    The next ride was a couple hours and I asked then to drop me before the station if they saw rides heading to Cape Coast along the way. 

I got dumped off on a street corner where there was a Big Blue Yutong Short Bus almost full.  Yippee for me and all on board…between myself and one other  and the beast was full.   This mini Yutong is actually going to Accra but will pass through Cape Coast.  Hope they remember I wanted to get off. 

A heavyset woman with a baby was sitting next to me.  Her boobs were gigantic.  Granted I am a wee thing and a C cup seems big to me.  Her baby was fussing because he was hungry and she was having trouble in the crowded bus with breast feeding so I helped her out a bit.  Just gave her my elbow to rest her tatas on to make things easier.  I felt so needed at that moment.  The Yutong had some ac and was only a One Fan Ice Ride. 

Oh, just remembered on big thing.  The Yutong Preacher singled me out to yell Amen.  Everyone was quite amused but I do what I am told.  It very well may have saved our lives that I did that plus I sill had my Good Luck Preacher Stone from that Big Yutong back in Kumasi.  Get me there safe and I will give you all the Amens I can muster.

Got back safe and sound, grabbed a cab to the Prospect were there is still no water and grabbed a bit to eat with Obehi.  He is like family now, the Nigerian brother I never had.

Happy Homeless Beach Dogs, Eco-Tourism and Canoe to Stilt Village

After an amazing, leisurely breakfast I headed to the beach for a few hours.  The resort has about 10 short tables with thatched umbrellas and lounge chairs.  Unlike many resorts this places if well off the beaten track near the border of Côte d'Ivoire so only a few locals passed during my chill time. 

Saw a group of four dogs running on the beach. 

lounging at the beach

First thing I noticed is that their tails where up and wagging, which is not something I see often in the third world/developing world.  I assumed they must belong to someone but the owner never appeared.  As they got closer I realized they were a pack of homeless beach dogs and they were well fed and happy as hell.  This is a first for me; happy, homeless beach dogs.  Watched and took pictures as they frolicked and dug for crabs then chased the crabs.  I felt honored to have witnessed this. 

Happy, homeless beach dogs playing with crabs

Around 10 I headed over to the Nzuezo Tour guide area and the guy from the bus ride in was there.  He would be my guide to the village.  Ghana has embraced eco-tourism and works hard to find a balance between preservation and tourism.  The silt village can only be accessed by canoe and you are required to take a guide.   Again I am the only tourist in town so it’s just the two of us.

It is the dry season at the moment so we have to walk about a half an hour to where we get the canoe.  During a large portion of the year you walk a mere five minutes to the canoes.  The first bit of the walk is a huge grass field.  There were men working to repair fences but these fences were haphazardly placed.  My guide said these were fishing fences.  During the rainy season the area were are walking is a shallow lake and those fences capture fish.  In about a month the rains will start and this meadow will become a lake.

Really wish I could come back and check it out in the rainy season.  One of my favorite things is to see a place, especially a place with extremes, in different seasons.  The best one yet was Russia.  I was there for a month in July camping and then did the Trans-Siberian and a month between Moscow and St. Petersburg in the winter.  What a difference.  Really must write about that one someday.

The canoe ride down the small river was very cool.  The entire trip was covered in a canopy of foliage and dragonflies and other water lovin’ bugs were abundant.  The river opened up into Lake Amansuri and I could see Nzeuzo in the distance.  Nzeuzo was created over 500 years ago and around 450 people live on the stilt village.  The village consists of two churches and a school complete with football pitch in the dry season.  

football pitch and school

Would love to take pictures once on the village but they no longer allow photography, which is great actually.  Can you imagine having daily tourists arriving at your home and in your hood snapping pictures? 

We only spent a half hour or so on Nzeuzo but that was all one really needs.  I did see there is a guesthouse there are well...that would be a pretty cool experience.  Since it is the dry season there are chickens running around in the mud that is the ground on the parts of the village that are closer to land.  Turns out that during the rainy season the chickens are put in floating chicken houses.  I bet they enjoy these months of dry.  The trip out was 20 Cedi and I gave a donation as well then tipped my guide 7 Cedi.  Typically he would have to walk the extra 10-15 minutes back to the tourist center but since it was just me I told him to go one home as I am more than capable of getting myself back.

Nzeuzo Stilt Village

Ate a super tasty pizza served on a ceramic cooking dish…. covered in tomatoes, onions, capsicums and more)…and as is the Ghana way the electricity went out in the middle of the night.  Another night with the door open…. will wait and tell my mother that one later.

NEXT DAY

I did stay another day here but there is absolutely nothing to tell.  Ate good food, read a good book and sat on the beach.  Hells Yeah!

Out of the open lake

 

Pizza at Beyin Beach Resort

Beyin Beach Resort, Stellar Mac N Cheez, Alone at a Resort, Happy Soul

Beyin Beach Resort

Yeeeha! Back in a Tro Tro to Takaradi (6 Cedi).  Once I got to Takaradi I had to grab a taxi to another Tro Tro station to get to Beyin in the far west near the border of Cote d’Ivoire.  Ended up paying 4 Cedi, which is too much but I really didn’t care.   

 The station for destinations West was pretty crazy…loved it.  Once again I was the only white chick around and as usual everyone was incredible helpful.  Everyone assumed I would likely be heading to Beyin so they led me to the correct ticket booth.  In no time I had sorted a ticket and found my Tro Tro for Beyin (6.5 Cedi). 

One of the young guys waiting or the Tro Tro spoke pretty good English and is a guide to Nzuezo, the stilt village that makes this area famous.   It is a much smaller destination and it can take a long time to fill a Tro but I got lucky and it was full in about a half hour.  Grabbed a couple chocolate Fan Ice for the road cuz it was scorching hot and it was a two Fan Ice kinda ride. 

The ride to Beyin was super hot but lovely.  About an hour or less out we hit a dirt road for the rest of the journey.  I felt like I was getting well away from it all.  At one point a huge clear-cut area appeared with construction going on.  It didn’t take long to figure out it was a Chinese outfit.  It was insane the amount of building going on so far off the beaten track.   I later found out it is yet another oil drilling project.  

 As it turns out Beyin is a sleepy little coastal town.  Only way in is a dirt road for a good half hour.  As we rolled into town I knew there would be limited trips back out.  I was the last one on the Tro Tro and the driver was kind enough to drive me to the edge of town where the Beyin Beach Resort is found. 

After jumping out of the truck and following the direction of the driver gave me which where something like ‘go that way and have fun’.  I headed towards the beach on yet another dirt footpath and asked a couple people where to go and Voilà! I was there. 

my hut

The resort is absolutely gorgeous.  An elevated, wooden footpath leads to an open-air bar/reception area surrounded by thatched roof seating areas with tables for dinning.   I am the only guest as it is the off-season and the middle of the week...a resort to myself.  Apparently this joint was packed out just the day before with weekend vacation seekers. 

Following the wooden footpath leads to shared toilets and showers and eventually to the sleeping huts.  I booked into a two person shared hut but I remained the only guest so didn’t have to share the digs.  Thankfully each room has a fan but like a lot of Ghana the power was out about half the time.

The deal with places like this is you put in your dinner order before five so it’s ready to go by six or seven.  The Beyin Beach Resort has a stellar menu so I decide to do something I haven’t in a long time…each Western food.  The first night I order up some Mac N Cheez.  Time will tell if this is a good decision or not. 

Two hours later…. OMG the Mac N Cheez is off the hook.  Such a happy tummy.  

Spend a bit of time enjoying the ocean night sky before heading to bed.  The power was off again and even though I was alone at this remote resort at night I felt comfortable leaving the door open for that cool ocean breeze to act as my fan.

See Ya Mole, Water Shortage, and Heading West

The only bus out of Mole National Park leaves at 4am.  Not thrilled about it but it is what it is.  Five of us walked in the dark to the pick up spot with sleep still in our eyes.  So the story is that the bus leaves at 4am if the driver wakes up at 4am.  We did get lucky and he woke up by 4:15 and we were off. 

It was dark out, raining and cool.  Actually managed to get a wee bit of sleep.  The ride back to town was uneventful and we were lucky to be the first stop.  The bus to Tamale was full and standing room only by the second stop. 

Chill day in Tamale.  We were back in town about 10am; I bought my ticket back to Kumasi for the next day and headed back to our hotel.  It was a catch up on writing and photos kind of day for me.  Sorry no baboon attacks or crazy Swedes to mention.

Did dinner at a chop bar a block from the hotel and our ‘hotel cat’ was there waiting for us.  Met a Ghanaian woman who had been living in DC suburbs for past 11 years.  She was there to introduce her children to the rest of the family.  It was apparent that her 7 and 10 year old were American (well at least Westerners).  They were freaked by the fact they had to jump over a drain ditch to get to the chop bar and they were sick of chicken and rice.  The woman on the other hand was desperate to move back to Ghana after her two-week visit.  She shad that for the past nine years she has been on high blood pressure medicine and within 10 days in Ghana she was off it.  Us Westerners tend to think those in the third world and developing world want to move our way…. not true.

Chicken and Rice at that joint were only 3Cedi and wicked good.

NEXT DAY

Got up early to get my 7 am bus to Kumasi.  STC buses are always nice; ac, big seats and safe.  We did have a blow out but the bus made it to a rest area so everyone could eat and pee while it was getting fixed. 

Got to Kumasi only an hour late and checked back in to Treasureland for one more night before heading back to The Coast. 

The ride back was on a STC again so very comfortable and uneventful.  I check back into The Prospect to find out that the whole of Cape Coast was out of water and had been for days.  No rain so the river was empty and there is no back up plane for things like that in Ghana.  Turns out that the edges of Cape Coast had been out of water for weeks and it had finally hit the city center.

Daily water supply

Thankfully The Prospect brings a bucket and a huge container of water each day, which is enough to bath and flush the toilet once maybe twice a day.  Someone on the staff has to gather all these huge containers and go somewhere for hours each day to get us water.  I have no clue how far or how much they pay to get the water but they are gone a good half day.

I was back in room 116 with the bed bugs again and yes, I was eaten alive again.   This time I spoke up and they sprayed my room and Obehi’s room as they were next door to each other.  I spent the next couple days in comfort without a single bed bug bite…. Nice.

So, Obehi and I took bets on when the last time people had showered.  We based this not only on odor but on the level of scratching people were doing.  Oh, what becomes entertainment when the water drys up in Ghana. 

I am heading further west tomorrow…Far West. 

Poo Throwing / Face Eating Monkeys, Day of the Baboon, Never Drink Monkey Fanta and A Crazy Swedish Dude Bitch Stapped a Baboon

Breakfast with Baboons

Got a late start to the day…didn’t rise until 7:30 so it was too late to do another walking safari.  As I headed out to the lounge area to get breakfast I saw a couple monkeys playing in the trees in front of my room.  Little did I know it was an omen of what the day would hold…it would be forever known as 'The Day the Crazy Swedish Dude bitch slapped a Baboon'. 

Baboon in background will make his move soon

The Day of the Monkey started early.  As I enjoyed my breakfast two giant baboons wandered into the dining/pool area.  I am not afraid of many things but monkeys freak the pee out of me every time.  No matter how cute everyone thinks a particular monkey is all I think is that thing is going to throw poo at me before ripping my face off.  Some people ran when the baboon came to breakfast but I sat still as can be holding my Mac in a death hold.  There is one thing I have learned first hand from my many encounters with primates and that is they steal crap.  I have had a few things go missing at the hands of a monkey.

The breakfast baboons were ready to charge us frightened tourist when the staff came out like apron-wielding warriors armed with serving trays and slingshots.  They saved our skins to be sure…and it wouldn’t be the last time that day. 

Red Monkey with baby

With the crazed, face eating baboons gone for the moment we could all concentrate on the happy band of Red Monkeys with babies in tow.  Even though I kept my distance they were amazing to watch.  There were about 20 of them and several babies being carried on their mom’s backs.  After the baboons this happy band of merry monkeys were a joy.  

Back to watching the elephants along with one baby at the watering hole when the nasty gang of baboons returned.  There were a few people by the pool which is just steps away from the nice shaded dining area I was chilling at.  The baboons decided to mess with an older German fellow.  This guy got up to move when he saw the baboons coming but they were not pleased when he tried to grab his stuff before retreating.  One baboon got pissed off and threw his chair then stole the guy's big bottle of Fanta.

almost here!

 Some of the touts that hang around the motel ran them off and a few minutes later returned with the half empty Fanta.  They cleaned off the bottle with the end of a shirt and returned it to the German fella.  Thankfully he said no thanks to the drink…. I mean come on, everyone knows the rule….’never drink monkey Fanta’.

No more monkey attacks that I saw but I did hear about a good one that happened while I was in my room.  A dumb ass Swedish guy walked right next to one of the baboons…as he passed the baboon the dumb ass Swedish dude ‘Bitch Slapped’ the beast.  From the story I heard the baboon reached to attack and the guy got away by mere inches.  What a nutter. 

Jeep Safari, Bruised Back, Forest Elephants and A Pet Wart Hog as Dinner Guest

Yummers!  After breakfast I sat in front of my room, which overlooks the watering hole.  Some tiny antelope creature passed right in front of me just now.  Only had a few hours to chill before our Jeep Safari.  It was a lot of fun but I have to be honest that I enjoyed the walking safari more…not to say that I didn’t love the jeep safari.

The best part of doing the jeep safari is that you sit on the roof of the jeep.  The one the six of use used didn’t have any safety bars on the front where I sat and my back was well bruised by the end.  It made it all the more exciting especially over the bumps with nothing to hold on to.  Let’s see we say huge elephants wandering the Forest, wart hogs prancing about, some monkeys and birds galore and of course lost of antelopes of all sorts.

The cost was fantastic for what you get.  120 for the truck split by 6 and 5 per hour per person for the guide.  There really wasn’t anything amazing about this little adventure but I wouldn’t have passed it up for the world.

To try and save a bit of money we had dinner at a little local spot.  We ordered earlier in the day and when we showed up the walked us through their house to the back area where there was a couple low top picnic tables and a pet wart hog…. at least the hog though that was the case.  Food was only ok but it did the job and we got to eat with a wart hog. 

Back at the hotel a big group of us had beers and good conversation.  I had mentioned my friend Obehi at the table but never by name but Sofie (young Swedish gal and Sam (from the UK) both asked if by chance I was talking about Obehi.  Oh, Ghana is a small place.   Sofie gave him a call and then passed it to me…. wicked funny…don’t think Obehi expected that one.

wandering the forest

Wart Hog as Dinner Guest