Good Bye Beyin, 3 Tro Tro/One Fan Ice Kinda Day, Big Blue Yutong Short Bus, Big Boobs and Yutong Preacher (Beyin, Ghana)

AND ANOTHER NEXT DAY

good bye Beyin

There are two choices for leaving Beyin.  There is a direct tro tro to Takaradi at 4am.  What, 4am, hell no.  I would rather take 5 tro tros and accidentally end up in Cote d’Ivoire than leave at 4am. 

As you might have guessed I choose the long way.  I had to take a tro tro to the ‘cross roads’ so I headed out with my pack in that direction just waiting to flag down the next tro heading my way.  Some guys at a chop bar told me to grab a tro going the other direction into the next town where I would get on another to Takaradi.  Apparently it takes longer to get to the town as you are backtracking but there is more chance of catching a ride.  Decided to kinda hang out and to just jump on the next tro no matter which direction it was heading.  The longer way won. 

The first tro took maybe 45 minute to get to somewhere.  There I jumped off and jumped on one going to Takaradi.  As usual the locals on my first tro made sure I was set up on the next one before they left.  It’s an entire country of nice people.    The next ride was a couple hours and I asked then to drop me before the station if they saw rides heading to Cape Coast along the way. 

I got dumped off on a street corner where there was a Big Blue Yutong Short Bus almost full.  Yippee for me and all on board…between myself and one other  and the beast was full.   This mini Yutong is actually going to Accra but will pass through Cape Coast.  Hope they remember I wanted to get off. 

A heavyset woman with a baby was sitting next to me.  Her boobs were gigantic.  Granted I am a wee thing and a C cup seems big to me.  Her baby was fussing because he was hungry and she was having trouble in the crowded bus with breast feeding so I helped her out a bit.  Just gave her my elbow to rest her tatas on to make things easier.  I felt so needed at that moment.  The Yutong had some ac and was only a One Fan Ice Ride. 

Oh, just remembered on big thing.  The Yutong Preacher singled me out to yell Amen.  Everyone was quite amused but I do what I am told.  It very well may have saved our lives that I did that plus I sill had my Good Luck Preacher Stone from that Big Yutong back in Kumasi.  Get me there safe and I will give you all the Amens I can muster.

Got back safe and sound, grabbed a cab to the Prospect were there is still no water and grabbed a bit to eat with Obehi.  He is like family now, the Nigerian brother I never had.

Tamale or Bust via Yutong, Protection Rock, Changing Landscape/Culture and No Police Escort

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Yutong to Tamale, Ghana

Laura and I are off to Tamale then on to Mole National Park to check out some critters.  Once again I am leaving on a Sunday, which means few transportation options.  We end up in a large Yutong without AC for the 5-6 hours to Tamale (20 Cedi).  The Yutong Preacher gets on and does his thing to save us from the evil of the road. I buy a rock from him for 1 Cedi.  I hope this Protection Rock lasts through many rides to come.

 I do know that on the road from Kumasi to Tamale there have been robberies.  In fact they no longer do night buses and, in fact, if yours is running late and still on the road after dark you have to pull off until a police escort is arranged for the bus.  Big time crime is very low in Ghana and I think this police protection thing is to avoid even the chance of an incident.  I have no apprehension about the trip. 

Self Take of Laura and myself on the Yutong

It only took about an hour ½ to see the true changes to the landscape and the culture-scape.  The jungle begins to lose out to the arid savannah like terrain.  Colonial buildings are replaced with mud and thatched huts.  The North of Ghana is mostly Muslin and you can see the change in the cloths wore by the locals reflect this influence.  I am thrilled to be able to cover my face more (for sun protection) without looking out of place.  In fact, we found that women gave us positive looks when they saw us covering our faces with our scarves. 

At the half way-point we pulled into a way station with a couple restaurants, toilets, food vendors and as we where in the North a prayer room.  I noticed a huge professionally made sign with a giant arrow that said ‘Do Not Urinate Here’ (quite to the point).  After Laura came out of the bathroom she was a bit confused as there were people (all men) in this concrete room with mats washing their feet with tea kettles water.  They were washing their feet to enter the prayer room. 

Short break and we were on the road again.  Now the landscape fully embraces the dry savannah terrain covered in beautiful, majestic termite mounds.  The villages are made up of groups of round 3-4 huts with doors pointing to a center area in a circle.  Theses groups of huts are closed in with a thatched fence.  I wonder if these make up the different families within the village.

We arrived in Tamale around 6pm.  The station/market place is hoping especially for a Sunday night.  One of Rashid’s friends met us right off the bus and helped us get to an amazing hotel he had arranged for us.  Very cool to know people I guess. 

The Moon-Light Lodge is about 5 KM heading out of town but that is still very central as Tamale is not that big (even if it is the 3 or 4^th biggest cities in Ghana).  The rooms are large, with en-suite, ac, fan, TV and huge double bed.  We got all this for only 30 Cedi.  

Decided to go to the closest place to eat, which was only five minute by foot.  It is a disco light pizzeria/anything/bar.  Ended up ordering a vegetarian pizza and it was freaking delicious.  My tummy was very happy to be sure.  If you do end up in Tamale one day and are craving pizza, a beer and some serious lighting then go to Tacorammbama Pizza.

Bloodsucking Road Demons, Tro Tro Evangelist and 'A Tro Tro Killed my Kindle'

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Heading to destinations North today.  The STC is a super nice way to do a trip to Kumasi but as it starts in Takaradi my chances of getting a seat are limited, as they don’t do pre-sales for the Cape Coast to Kumasi leg.  The tro tros leave from Tantri station not far from my hotel and right next to the Indomie Lady

Me and My Tro Tro, Takati Station /  Cape Coast, Ghana

Got a nice cramped spot at the back of the tro tro and began the waiting for it to fill.  As we waited a very round woman with a bright turquoise dress began chanting and praying on the bus.  It was so loud it actually hurt my ears.  I came to find out that the ‘dodgy’ forms of transportation in Ghana (maybe all over Western Africa) bring a religious person on to pray for our safe journey.  I have no clue what she was saying as it was in Twi but I am thinking it was something like ‘God will protect you from the blood sucking road demons…. and on and on’.   After about 15 minutes of praying for our safety on the crappy tro tro our Tro Tro Evangelist prayed, asked for donations and left.  I will experience this again and again and again.

The 3 1/3-4 hour ride to Kumasi was fun.  The driver was channeling Mario Andrei and weaving in and out of Mac Trucks and passenger buses as the rain pounded us (leaking into the cab and into my pack).  We made good time and because of our Spiritual Healing back in Cape Coast we survived. 

Arrived in Kumasi around 5, jumped in a taxi and got to the Treasure land Hotel in no time.  As usual the power was out but the hotel turns a full on generator on at dusk that even runs the ac.  Pretty cool. 

I had a small dinner and a beer in the Summer Hut (a little outdoor hut with a table and chairs).  I decided to open my Kindle to unwind as a gift to myself after a long travel day…as it turns out the tro tro ride was a bit bumpier than I thought.  ‘A TRO TRO KILLED MY KINDLE’.  I keep my important things like my camera and laptop on my person when I have travel days but didn’t really worry much about the old Kindle.  The inky, computer generated goo that makes your screen look like a book broke (I guess that would be an LCD screen). Very sad state of affairs.  Looks like I will be reading crap ass books I find along the way.  As it turns out I was right…High School Musical 2 Exercise Book is about as good as I have found.