Good Morning Passau!, Long Walk, Yummy Food X2 (Passau, Germany)

Passau view

Good Morning, my sweet Passau. 

I walked for many miles today…covered a huge chunk of this magnificent little corner of the World.  During my walk I did do a practical thing…. I found a long sleeve button up shirt that won’t show sweat for the Africa portion of my trip.  I know it sounds odd to hunt for a sweat hiding shirt but dude Africa be HOT!  Actually the heat in Europe right now is more intense than the Ghana temperatures I dealt with two months ago.  I also found a huge electronics store in the mall while trying to get to the train station.  A super helpful guy helped me find a SD card converter, a case that actually fits my dual Sim phone and a micro SD card for the dual Sim phone.  Quite successful housekeeping outing if I do say so.

Finally made it to the train station and scooped up a ticket to Vienna for tomorrow.  Hopefully I meet up with the family for a few minutes before I leave town.  I have no clue what time they dock in Passau so fingers crossed we can get some hugs and coffee in.

Tasty Salad

I ended up walking along the waterfront for quite a while to the University of Passau.  I discovered a lovely footbridge and decided it needed to be crossed but the smells wafting from a tiny café at the foot of the bridge lead me and my empty tummy inside to investigate.  Cappuccino to accompany my vegetable quiche and salad was a much-needed sidebar to my fantastic but hot day.  The quiche was absolutely amazing and the salad was picture perfect (8.80 Euro).

I took some great pictures as I crossed the bridge and a tiny nun with a beautiful smile said something wonderful to me in German.  No clue what she said but it made me very happy. 

Quiche Baby!

So, who knew, but the other side of Passau is just as picturesque as the main part of town but very few tourists cross over.  It always amazes me how quickly you can get out of the tourist mass even in the high season.  I managed to wander away two hours on the ‘other side’.   There are churches, a cemetery, gorgeous streets and a brilliant view of the main side of Passau. 

I headed back to the Wilder Mann to rest my toes after 4-5 hours of straight walking.  Rested up and hungry again I head back to the restaurant I visited on my first night here where Weiner Shnitzl.  Just to let you know Weiner Schnitzel is the national dish of Austria...I guess I had better eat some when I'm there eh?  Sat outside again to people watch and ordered a beer and Gulashsuppe (Hungarian Goulash).  I am almost certain it is illegal here to NOT have a beer with dinner and I like to follow the rules.  I often see people having beer with breakfast in Germany.  The soup was outstanding and I am quite certain that pretzel bread should be served at every meal.  Germany has made the short list as a top contender for favorite food destinations. 

Footbridge, Passau

I had the amazing

Passau In the Summer, St. Stephen's Cathedral, and a Lovely River Cruise (Passau, Germany)

July 29

Wilder Mann Hotel

Unless you stay in a higher end hotel it is unlikely that you will have air conditioning which during a normal European Summer is not big deal.  This summer is an absolute scorcher in Europe.  I am sleeping on top of the blankets and just praying for a breeze to run through the open window.  Thankfully at some point in the night it cooled off a bit.

The breakfast room at the Wilder Mann is on the top floor and a total maze to get to.  They even have signs pointing out the path to food.  The room itself is an old Victorian style set up with ceiling to floor windows covering two full walls which makes for spectacular views of the city.

The food was decent but not as good as the amazing setups I have gotten use to at the last two places.  That being said it was worth the 7 Euros I paid.  After a long breakfast and coffee I took advantage of the wrap around balcony on the breakfast floor and soaked up the views. 

I wandered the city’s narrow, cobblestone streets which are shadowed by the pastel washed building.  Passau is  on the top of my ‘beautiful cities’ list to be sure.  It is difficult to take a bad picture here. 

Walking Passau, Germany

I took my first walk break at St. Stephen’s Cathedral, which is said to have the world’s largest organ.  St. Stephen's Cathedral is a baroque church built in 1688.  The church is said to have the largest organ outside the United States.  got there 30 minutes before the afternoon concert. There are two organ concerts a day and it was packed out by the time it began.  Many river cruises stop here and St. Steven’s Cathedral is high on the tourist list.  I had plenty of time to take in the beautiful architecture and baroque paintings.   There is no need to worry about where you sit here; the acoustics are incredible throughout.    

St. Stephen's Cathedral

I only had a half hour before my 2-hour cruise of the Danube so I wiggle my way to the waterfront along whatever cobblestone path is heading down to the river.   Yesterday, when I arrived, it was insanely quiet in Passau.  Apparently it was due to the time I arrived and because it was Sunday.  Today, there are tourist groups everywhere with a flag holding tour guide at the head.  It appears that Passau gets a lot of its tourist from the river cruising that is so popular here. 

Decided to do the Kristallschiff River Cruise which last two hours.  Got my ticket (13.80 Euro) and boarded.  What the hell, this thing looks straight out of a movie.  It is the most opulent boat I have ever seen.  There are chandeliers everywhere and the floors are inlayed with crystals.  I decide to sit inside, as I really need a break from the heat.   The cruise will go from Passau to Kasten, Austria to Obernezell and back again. 

I had a beer and watch the view out the gigantic windows.  This mini cruise on the Danube was well worth it. 

Along the Danube on a river cruise

I spent the rest of the day wandering around and ended up coming back to the hotel a bit early, as the rains are a coming.  I plan to get an early start tomorrow to see more sights and grab a ticket to Vienna. 

Marriage Carousel, Paussau or Bust, Another Late Train (Nuremberg, Germany)

Last Meal in Nuremberg

The family doesn’t leave until early evening and my train to Passau leaves at 14:00ish so we head off in search of the Marriage Fountain.  It’s actually called the Marriage Carousel or Ehekarussell in German.  This amazing piece was created by Jurgen Weber and erected in 1984.  It refers to a poem by Hans Sachs entitled ‘Bitter-Sweet Married Life’.  I spent 30 minutes walking around this fascinating piece checking out all the incredible details.  If you like sculptures then I would hunt this one down while in Nuremberg.  

Marriage Carousel

Marriage Carousel

ICE Goodies

Kissed the family goodbye until the next port and heading out on my five-minute walk to the train station.  As it turns out my train is running 40 minutes late.  The ICE staff brought us poor waiting souls water and popsicles to tide us over.  It did the trick.  I was so happy with my goodies on this hot day that I didn’t care my train was late.

The passing landscape was a combination of forests, countryside and small towns.  Well worth the four Euro extra for an assigned seat next to a window. 

Arrived in Passau an hour late and the taxi stand had more people than taxis.  It took about 15 minutes to grab one and as it turned out the couple waiting next to me were also going to the Hotel Wilder Mann…. love when you can share a cab.

Arrived at the Wilder Mann in less than 10 minutes.  Most things in the tiny town are moments away.  Just that short trip and the brief moment out of the cab I can tell Passau is a very special place.  Picture perfect at every turn. 

The Hotel Wilder Mann shares space with the Glass Museum, which adds to its castle like feel.  The hotel is very quaint.  My single room is on the fourth floor and up the cement-winding staircase I go.  It is a bit of a maze trying to get around this hotel, which I adore.  My room is very small but super adorable with a big window and decent bathroom.  It feels very ‘Passauie’ in this room.  Like the others the breakfast is included and I can’t wait to see what it’s like. 

One additional thing I noticed off the bat about this hotel and will see all over the city in days to come is the extensive flood damage sustained just months ago.  It was the worst in History, which dates back to the 1500 round these parts.

It’s getting late so I head out in search of dinner after a long walk along the waterfront.  The whitewashed buildings with pastel trim are absolutely adorable.  I want to decorate my next place like Passau feels.  I stop at a restaurant on the water for dinner.  Pork schnitzel for me and of courses a good sturdy German beer.  My extremely tall, blond server was particularly nice.  A thing I never knew back home is that schnitzel should be doused in with a good squeeze of a lemon to set off the flavors.  Delish!  (10.8 Euro)

Enjoyed the rest of my beer as the sunset and headed back to my cozy room for a good but hot nights sleep.

Train Tickets, Ice Cream, Music Fest, and Scary Dungeons (Nuremberg, Germany)

My sister Mayah and I got up earlier than everyone and after the two of use ate breakfast we went to the train station to get my ticket to Passau and ice cream to boot. 

Nuremberg on a Saturday at the height of summer with a music festival going on is a wickedly packed place.  Oh the people watching that will be done today.   By the way, what up with wearing back pantyhose when it is nearly 100 degrees out…why are we wearing cloths at all?

Mom was doing a little shopping so the rest of us decided to grab a bite to eat at the concessions for the music festival.  Meika was in heaven because we found a noodle and rice vendor.  Yummers…. would rather do sausage but noodles good too. 

Next stop was the dungeons.  We waited 30 minutes for the tour in German to begin.  All of five minutes down the tunnels both the girls freaked out, next thing we are back outside.  Oh well.

Spent the rest of the day people watching in cafes, playing in water fountain and drinking wine…beginning to think this is the good life.   I leave the family tomorrow for Passau and if all goes well I will see them there before I head to Vienna.  They board their 8-day Viking Cruise along the Rhine tomorrow and I plan to stalk them at every port in-between here and Budapest.

Kick-Ass Hotel, Chocolate, Chocolate and More Chocolate! (Cologne, Germany)

The Cathedral

The Hotel Branderburger Hof is no more than five minutes from the train station, which in Cologne is a prime spot for sight seeing.  I booked into a single room with shared bathroom/shower for under $60US.  The room is tiny but more than adequate for my needs.  It has a comfy bed with super soft pillows, a closet, mirror and sink, as well as a flat screen TV, blow-dryer and baby soaps and the whatnot.  In my three days here I never had to wait for the shared toilet or shower.  

The Branderburger Hof is a family run joint.  Nice old building just like I prefer.  The breakfast (included) is outstanding.  It will be the best I have in Europe over my six weeks.  The buffet included eggs, bacon, 5 plus meat, 5 plus cheeses, 5 plus types of bread, several juices, milk, fruits, yogurts, vegetables and pots of fresh brewed coffee delivered to your table in silver pots.  The eating room was lovely as well or you could opt to eat outside and an equally charming spot.

Grabbed a map from the front desk and was off on my first day of touring around Europe.  After all the delays I was super stoked. 

I decided to do the Hop On Hop Off Bus (2 days plus cruise for 23 Euro).  I always love the hop on hop off deals.  It’s the best way to get familiar with a new city.  I typically do the full tour before starting to hop on and off.  The full tour is under two hours and gives great insight into the history of Cologne. 

As the next round began the driver told me it was going to rain later and very likely tomorrow so I decide to hop off at the third stop and do the river cruise first. 

Old Vending Machine

After the cruise I headed to the Chocolate Museum (8 Euro); included in the price in a lovely piece of Lindts chocolate to start you off right.  This museum is an absolute must if you visit Cologne.  It is very detailed and full of fun and interesting facts especially if you are into collocate…and by the way who isn’t.    It covers everything for the history, culture and impact of chocolate on this world. There is even a small Lindt factory inside the museum. 

There was a section of the museum dedicated to old chocolate vending machines.  One of them was a working model and I spent 1 Euro on a bar of Lindt White Chocolate. 

Interesting chocolate tidbit:  Mr. Lindt invented milky, creamy chocolate by accident.  He left the couching machine on over the long weekend.  A couching machine scrapes the surface and agitates chocolate while distributing cocoa butter into the chocolate.  When he came back two days later to see his mistake it was discovered that by agitating the chocolate much longer it gave it a creamy texture…and modern chocolate was born.

Chocolate Museum Store

The mini factory was super cool.  Watching the chocolate process all the way to completion.  There of course is a killer chocolate store attached to the museum.  I perused for quite sometime before deciding on a rose infused truffle.  I knew it was a mistake to buy it with the heat the way it was but…by they time I got back to the hotel hours later my chocolate bar and truffle were a soupy mess at the bottom of my bag…yes, I licked the bag clean…judge me, I dare you.

The chocolate theme does not end here.  I completed this journey at the Chocolate Museum Café…. what do you think I had for lunch?  Dessert for lunch, you are correct.  The café overlooks the Rhine River and is a brilliant place to enjoy a lunch or chocolate lunch.  I partook of the Chocolate Noir (a chocolate mousse covered in a dark chocolate layer and garnished with a yellow, cherry tomato). 

Chocolate Noir at Chocolate Museum Cafe

I had to burn some of this sugar out of my system so I walked the city for a while in the crazy heat.  I eventually jump back on a Hop on Hop off to rest my body…it started to pour and I decided to just stay on board and enjoy the cool off.  I was at the back of the bus with a British couple who where wicked hot too and loved the rain.  It must have dropped 20 degrees. 

It was about seven when I got back to my area and I grabbed a baguette with Camembert, cucumber and tomato for dinner.  I was totally done by the time I got back…love days like that.

I got a txt from The Family that they had arrived in Frankfurt.  I will meet up with them in Nuremberg the day after tomorrow.

Waffle ASAP, Train Late, After 2 Days Finally Arrive in Cologne...Guten Tag Baby! (Brussels, Belgium)

Waffle at Brussels Midi Train Station

We arrived in Brussels at 9:30 instead of 6:30, which meant more fellow passengers to share the queue for passport control.   When the cute passport control guy asked how long I was in Belgium and I told him I was jumping on a train for Cologne…he seems genuinely sad that someone would pass through like that.  I reaffirmed my love for Belgium by telling him I would be back through as I had to have a beer and a waffle.

I think I am just meant to be delayed on this trip as the luggage took a good hour as well.  My pack on my back I grabbed a coffee and headed down to the train….I was able to book my ticket all the way to Cologne right from the airport…very cool.  Trains from Brussels to Cologne leave about every three hours so I would be stuck at Brussels Midi for a couple hours but I assumed that would be the case….time for a waffle and another coffee right?

Sad Face cuz train 43 minutes late

Waffle check, coffee check…. two hours later off to the platform…where I see that my train in running 43 minutes late…. sad face…. nowhere to sit so I grab a piece of floor, put some tunes on and wait. 

I figure I might be able to gab a nap on the train but there is a baby screaming behind me most of the trip (not crying…screaming).  Even the headphones were of little help.

Hop off the train in Cologne and thankfully went out the wrong door first.  The Cathedral is right outside the Dom exit of the station…. it is absolutely breathtaking.  Happy travel thoughts run through my head as I head out the other side to where I should find my hotel quickly as it is very close to the station.

Yep, the hotel’s directions are crisp and clear and I am there in 5 minutes.  It appears to be a sleepy little street so hopefully I can keep the window open, as it is super hot in Europe right now. 

I don’t really check anything out and it is now about 5pm and I am pretty well done in.  Some food and sleep are all that happen for the rest of the day.  After all those delays this girl is thrilled to finally be in Germany; a country I have passed through many times, done night layovers in but until now could not check it off my list.  Guten Tag Germany.

Delayed in Denver, Stuck in DC, Trapped on Tarmac, Forced to Watch Hansel and Gretel,Jeremy Renner Still Hot! (Washington DC, USA)

Off again off again giggisty gig.  I hate that I had to come back especially for the reason I did but good to see the family and now I will see them in Europe too.  It will cost a pretty penny to add a month in Europe but how often to you get to meet up with your family in a foreign land…well, I guess it does happen in this family quite a bit but still.

We were two hours late leaving Denver because of air traffic issues.  I arrived in DC assuming I had missed my flight to Brussels but maybe it too was delayed.  alas, it was not to be, I got a txt when I turned on my phone still of plane that my flight was taxiing and I had already been rebooked on tomorrow nights flight.  I saw it out my window…. goodbye Big Bird…Brussels will be waiting for me tomorrow.

So that sounded dramatic but not too fused about it.  I am gone quite a while and missing a day is not a big deal.  I feel bad for those who only have a week or two.  Poor bastards. 

Jumped in line to deal with getting me to Brussels.  I could have done a flight at 11pm (5 hours from now) to London then change and get in tomorrow at 4:30 (would have been in at 7am if left all had gone well)…. but I didn’t feel like it…all that waiting and laying over.  I opted for the flight that United emailed me.  They had already booked me on tomorrow nights flight…. just 24 hours later…that’s cool.

Unfortunate since it was an air traffic issue they can't get me a comped hotel.  They did give me a voucher for a discount.  In the end it turned out that just walking in and booking myself was 10 bucks cheaper.  Stayed at the Hilton House Hotel.  Pretty fing nice.  Had a couple Amstel Lights and a wicked good club sandwich at the bar…. oh, and brie/mushroom soup…sounds odd but super delicious…. my tummy is well satisfied.

While I was sitting enjoying my grub and bevi my phone buzzed in that my flight to London was delayed by 2 hours.  Obviously they forgot to remove my notice from this flight but I was now feeling I made the right decision to just chilling in DC.  I would get several more delay messages.  Looks like I would have had a very long day if I had routed through London.

July 21

Slept like a baby last night and enjoyed a long breakfast and more chill time since I got a late checkout.

My flight to Brussels boarded on time but that is were it ends.  We spent a half hour at the gate because of air traffic issues again.  I have a feeling our Captain is super wonderful for getting us away from the gate.  We spent a long time taxi-ing to the point where our Captain turned off one engine to save fuel.  We taxied so long I watched the entire movie Hansel and Gretel…. Really Jeremy Renner…. why would you put me through that…. I am kinda embarrassed that I watched the whole thing (PS you are still a lovely little man). 

It was almost 3 hours in taxi mode but we had use of toilets and they brought us water.   This is one time it would have been super nice to be up in Business…. granted I probably would have been drunk especially since I had to watch Hansel and Gretel.  (I add journal entries to Word weeks after I scribe them in my notebook and what I actually wrote in journal about Hansel and Gretel was ‘What the F#*!k Jeremy!?)

Being back in Economy wasn’t that bad actually.  The food sucked but the seats where comfortable and I really have no complaints.  Brussels is mere hours away.

 

Visas for Togo/Benin, Well Endowed Generator, Back to States for The Bean Dog, Rollin Business Class (Accra, Ghana)

Bella Bean Dog

Of course I met up with Obehi again and yes he was still in the room next to me.  A new café run by a super nice German woman opened on the main drag while I was gone. It’s on the way down to the beach and called the Hayford Lounge.  Over the next couple days I would spend quite a bit of time here eating amazing food and getting out of the heat which is on the rise. 

Only back in Cape Coast for a couple days then heading back to Accra so I can get a visa or two and to cross the border into Togo.  I will miss Cape Coast.  I absolutely recommend a visit here.  I think it might be required when you visit Ghana.

A short taxi ride or medium walk is a place that has Ford Mini Vans with AC and comfy seats that head to Accra.  The price of a Tro to Accra would be 6 Cedi (US$3) and the mini vans are 15 (US$8).  The lap of luxury for me today; this would be considered a No Fanice Ride.  The people who take the mini vans are businessmen, students at university, and a couple well-dressed women.  Instead of basic cell phones they all have smart phones too I noticed.  One other interesting thing about this nice ride is that there are no Road Evangelist for a safe trip.  I guess it is no necessary to be blessed if you ride in a vehicle that meets safety standards.

I didn’t end up making a reservation in Accra and the couple places I called during the ride were full.  Oops.  These mini vans drop off a bit further from the city center.  I found a taxi and got a price set a bit higher than usual because I will have to have this guy drive me around and wait while I run into places until I find somewhere to rest my head. 

I want to stay in Osu this time.  Osu is the heart of the city dinning, shopping and nightlife.  There are a lot of expats living here because of all the food options I am assuming.  The hotels are also about 20-30% higher.  I did find a place for 60 Cedi (US$30) a night and I can’t remember the name of it at the moment.  Great rooms with bathroom and killer ac, flat screen and breakfast in the morning.  The great thing and what I have learned you look for is how big their generator is.  Even though the power is on more regularly now that Nigeria turned the power back on it still goes out a lot.  The place was well endowed in the generator department.

I will hang in Accra for about four days in order to pick up a visa for Benin and Togo.  I plan to enjoy the bustle of Osu District and maybe do a day trip somewhere…but for now it is off to bed for me. 

Oh, and I did go ahead and have dinner at the hotel…the only thing they had was chicken and rice but as it turned out it was delish.

NEXT DAY

Today I just wandered around Osu and had a long lunch with a couple coffees as the cutest little café while I watched the world go by.  Honestly nothing to write about. 

It was around 7ish when I got back and I decided to write in my journal and do some photo stuff while I kicked back with a couple beers.  There was a guy the night before having the same dinner as me but we didn’t chat.  I assumed he has working in Accra or Ghana in general as he just had that air about him…. looked to be late 40’s or early 50’s.

Tonight we decided to have our beers together and I was right late 40’s and has been working in Africa; mostly Ghana for about 20 years.   Like many Brits that have  spent a long time in Africa going back to the UK always takes adjusting to.  It seems a lot of expats just end up staying in Africa in the end.

Over the next couple days we hang out quite a bit wander Osu and Accra in general.  I did check out his new pad once and meet a couple of his friends that are also living there.  The apartments are pretty big…. huge living room, 2 bedrooms and bathroom and big kitchen…Paul’s apartment is on the second floor so he has a wrap around balcony too.  All these places are gated communities that you have to be buzzed into and an outer gate opens for you.  There is also a killer pool and bbq area.   That’s the life.  You would think that even a place like that would be reasonable in Ghana but no…. I think Paul said he pays 2,000 to 2,500 for it

Paul and I spent the next couple of days hanging out eating and chatting. 

Bella Bean at rest

I talked to my mother today and she said that Bella is super skinny and hasn’t eaten in a couple days.  After some time thinking about it I have decided to try and get back to Colorado so I can be the one to put her down.  She is my baby and knowing that I have time to get to her and maybe even spend a bit of quality time before the end makes it an easy decision especially since I have done a number of flights with frequent flyer points so far.  I will have to buy a ticket to come back and continue my journey but for now all I am thinking about is getting out of Accra and to my dog.

I found a frequent flyer flight in business class leaving tomorrow and after lots of talk on the phone with a representative (I had to trade in my Congo ticket and use most of the rest of my points) I got booked for tomorrow night’s flight.  I won’t know that I have a seat for sure until morning but there you go.  I spent the rest of the day wondering if I did the wrong thing by doing my trip when Bella was getting so old.  I realized that I couldn’t beat myself up about it.  Bella has had a spectacular life and it’s not like I left her at a kennel for two months…she has been with loving family.  I just hope I get at least a few days with her.

Paul and I went out for delicious Indian food tonight.  Actually one of the best I have had anywhere.   If I get back to Accra I have to hit this place up again.

The next day I just killed time until my flight.  Paul drove me to the airport.  It is a very odd feeling to be leaving.  I am almost two months into my trip and I am not ready for it to end but I want to get back.  Sometimes I am ready to head back from one of my big Sabbatical for several reasons.  I do love and miss my family and I am usually out of money. 

This time I am going back for only one reason; to end the life of my beloved dog. 

Rolling Business Class again.  Note to self:  I need to write a entry on how to get Business class for less than Economy when using Frequent Flyer points. 

I must admit that rollin back in business class does make the hurt a bit easier to bare.  Sipping champagne in a fully reclined position while stuffing my face with gourmet food gives me time to think about how amazing my dog is and how lucky I am to have found her.  Instead of dwelling on the fact that I am about to lose her I decide to think about all the  awesome times and how much fuller she made my life.  She is 15 and old age is unavoidable.

I am back and I will get several beautiful weeks with my baby dog.  Taking a break from my trip and losing a chunk of money is nothing to me now.  I would have been absolutely heartbroken if I had not come back. 

Good Bye Beyin, 3 Tro Tro/One Fan Ice Kinda Day, Big Blue Yutong Short Bus, Big Boobs and Yutong Preacher (Beyin, Ghana)

AND ANOTHER NEXT DAY

good bye Beyin

There are two choices for leaving Beyin.  There is a direct tro tro to Takaradi at 4am.  What, 4am, hell no.  I would rather take 5 tro tros and accidentally end up in Cote d’Ivoire than leave at 4am. 

As you might have guessed I choose the long way.  I had to take a tro tro to the ‘cross roads’ so I headed out with my pack in that direction just waiting to flag down the next tro heading my way.  Some guys at a chop bar told me to grab a tro going the other direction into the next town where I would get on another to Takaradi.  Apparently it takes longer to get to the town as you are backtracking but there is more chance of catching a ride.  Decided to kinda hang out and to just jump on the next tro no matter which direction it was heading.  The longer way won. 

The first tro took maybe 45 minute to get to somewhere.  There I jumped off and jumped on one going to Takaradi.  As usual the locals on my first tro made sure I was set up on the next one before they left.  It’s an entire country of nice people.    The next ride was a couple hours and I asked then to drop me before the station if they saw rides heading to Cape Coast along the way. 

I got dumped off on a street corner where there was a Big Blue Yutong Short Bus almost full.  Yippee for me and all on board…between myself and one other  and the beast was full.   This mini Yutong is actually going to Accra but will pass through Cape Coast.  Hope they remember I wanted to get off. 

A heavyset woman with a baby was sitting next to me.  Her boobs were gigantic.  Granted I am a wee thing and a C cup seems big to me.  Her baby was fussing because he was hungry and she was having trouble in the crowded bus with breast feeding so I helped her out a bit.  Just gave her my elbow to rest her tatas on to make things easier.  I felt so needed at that moment.  The Yutong had some ac and was only a One Fan Ice Ride. 

Oh, just remembered on big thing.  The Yutong Preacher singled me out to yell Amen.  Everyone was quite amused but I do what I am told.  It very well may have saved our lives that I did that plus I sill had my Good Luck Preacher Stone from that Big Yutong back in Kumasi.  Get me there safe and I will give you all the Amens I can muster.

Got back safe and sound, grabbed a cab to the Prospect were there is still no water and grabbed a bit to eat with Obehi.  He is like family now, the Nigerian brother I never had.

Tour Kumasi, Largest Market in Western Africa, Lost on Pimped Out Tro Tro, Best and Worst Tour Guide Ever!

Breakfast at Treasureland Hotel in Kumasi, Ghana

The included breakfast at the Treasure Land Hotel is fantastic.  They give you three Nescafe sackets, Milo, tea, toast with butter and jam, a Spanish omelet and fruit.  What up with that…. love it.

Met Laura (she is from the States and living with her Ghanaian husband in Kumasi…met her in Accra) at the hotel and we took off to tour Kumasi.   I assume that Laura knows the ins and out of this city…. oh, how wrong I was…. and the adventure begins…. Laura is the Best and Worst Tour Guide Ever…got us totally lost several times but that is what travel is all about right…the adventure of it all.  Getting there is half the fun my friends.

Kumasi is the second largest city in Ghana with a population around 1.5 million.  It feels much bigger than Accra to me.  It is a busy, active city to be sure.  Kumasi is the only modern capital of the Ashanti Region and was the capital of the Ashanti State for three centuries.  The center of town in called Adum and has a crazy, busy market place than you could and should spend hours lost in. 

One thing I loved about Kejetia Market (the central market) is the old, abandoned railroad track that is now the walking path through parts of the market.  Kumasi is the first place I have felt at all hassled by anyone but still nothing like many parts of Asia.  Kajetia Market is the largest market in all of Western Africa.  There is also a major tro tro station at the market and it is out of control.  Dodging tro tros and Yutongs is quite the feat but good fun in the maze of Kejetia Market. 

The area was so busy that I didn’t want to take my camera out to get a shot of the old, abandoned building painted three stories high with the OMO logo.  It was very cool indeed. 

We decided to go to the National Cultural Center for a break.  Took a tour of the Prempreh II Jubillee Museum (5 Cedi with a guide).  It is a tiny museum but with the guide telling of the Ashanti history it was well worth it.  The grounds of the National Cultural Center are a bit of an oasis in this noisy, bustling city.  My friend Laura spent some time shopping, as there are a number of art markets on the grounds of the Cultural Center. 

We headed up Roman Hill to a beautiful old church and happened to find a tiny tro tro station behind it and as it turns out one of them was heading our direction.  So the deal with tro tro is that you yell or hit the minivan wall or ceiling to let the driver know you want off.  For a traveler like me I don’t recognize where I want to get off so I either find tro tro that finish at my destination or I ask the driver or someone to tell me when to get off.  It usually works. 

I assumed Laura knew where we were to get off as she has done it on a regular basis for several months.  As we passed an area that looked familiar even to me she turns to me and says, “hey that’s Tech” (our stop) as if she is just showing me the sights.  A bit of time goes by and the city has turned into suburbs and lots of green rolling hills.  She has missed our stop by a good 15 minutes and we are well on our way out of town.   We ask a girl next to us and after some time figure out we are on a tro tro to another city. 

After passing through several villages I stop laughing and we tell people on the tro tro that we should have gotten on 30 minutes ago.  After many good laughs by all the pull off the road in the middle of nowhere and put us on a tro tro back to the city but it is broken down and night has set in. 

Not much time passes and another tro tro goes by and we are off again.  It was a wicked fancy tro with what looks like a stripper pole up front (my first Pimp Tro).  Our driver wearing sunglasses at night and driving like a mad man (this is my favorite kind of tro tro driver by the way) we get back in no time. 

Well after dark I get back to the Treasure Land Hotel to have a beer and tell all the tales of my day with the Best and Worst Tour Guide Ever.  Thanks you dear Laura…it was a blast.