Visa Check, Ticket to Ouagadougou Check....I Am Outta Here! (Southern Illinois)

Pre Leaving Stuff

So while I was at the Lake House I finally got around to booking my ticket back to Africa.  Decided to fly into Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso (pronounced Wagadoogoo).  I want my frequent flyer points and I need a month layover in Europe so me thinks it is best to call United and pay the extra 25 bucks to work this one out with a real human.  Every time I go online and try to do this one myself I end up with wicked high prices…I’m talking over 3,000 bucks at best.

So finally get in touch with a United rep and off we go.  I have yet to have anyone; even in the travel business know how to say Ouagadougou so I just gave her the airport code.   I had to look up the pronunciation the first time too don’t get me wrong it’s a wonderful little mouthful and has to be the best capital name ever.

United earned their extra 25 bucks on this one.  My rep worked hard to find me a reasonable deal.  Luckily I was flexible by more than a few days of when my flights were and even what airports I came and went from.  I was cool to enter or leave from Frankfurt, Paris or Brussels.  I assume it will be Brussels, which has two flights a week to Waga.  I was right.  Managed to get the ticket for about $1900.  Sounds like a lot but a great deal on this especially in the summer.    Most of the tickets I looked at in the region without the long stopover where like 2400.  The change fee is $300; which is pretty standard anymore.  Oh how sad to not be using frequent flyer points on this one and I have to fly economy….yikes!

A Couple weeks later

Checking in online and given the option to buy double or triple miles for my flight for a mere $230 US.  Hell yes I am.  I use my flyer point and I use them well so on a long haul like this triple miles for 230 is huge man.  I should be able to do a one way business class on my next international just by doing this and with the points I still have.  So basically I just spent 230 and will be able to fly in style next time.  I will be buying on the way back too. 

Bella Bean Dog! Back from Africa for the Love of a Good Dog (Accra, Ghana to Denver, Colorado)

Bean in Nashville

Rolling Business Class again.

I must admit that rollin back in business class does make the hurt a bit easier to bare.  Sipping champagne in a fully recline position while stuffing my face with gourmet food gives me time to think about how amazing my dog is and how lucky I am to have found her.  Instead of dwelling on the fact that I am about to lose her I decide to think about all the awesome times and how much fuller she made my life.  She is 15 and old age is unavoidable.

I am back and I will get several beautiful weeks with my baby dog.  Taking a break from my trip and losing a chunk of money is nothing to me now.  I would have been absolutely heartbroken if I had not come back. 

Last Weeks with bella bean dog

Just going to give an extremely brief description of my 6 weeks back in the States (no more than two entries), as it is not much about travel and more about sorrow. 

The trip back was very comfortable as described before.  I guess if you have to travel halfway around the world to put you dog down it is made a bit easier in Business Class. 

It was wonderful to see the family when I got in.  Actually Nathan, my brother, was there to pick me up because Nalya, my niece, had been very sick and mom was at with her.  We went straight there and Miss. Nalya was doing much better.  I tried to be cool and thrilled to be at my sister’s place (and I was happy to see everyone) but all I could think about was that I have flown like 20 hours and put a hold on my trip in order to see my baby dog one last time.  

Bella had lost about ten pounds before I ever left and I would only have left her with family knowing the unlikelihood that I would see her again.  Her end is all old age nothing else.  Even if I spent 10,000 I would not be giving her more time.   She had lost another 15 pounds I would say and was it was just a matter of a short amount of time.   She did seem pretty happy but it was obvious it was time. 

The vet did tell me to try and put five pounds on her and if it could be done she might have another month or two.  That didn’t work, she kept loosing weight but it was wonderful to get those last couple weeks with her.  I pretty much never left her side and just gave her all the love I had and she gave it right back.  She knew too that time was up.

Bella Bean's 14th Birthday

Bella’s favorite place of the planet is the Lake House in Illinois, so I decided to try and get her there for her last days.  Even though she is in the last weeks of life when she sees that I am loading the car for a road trip she is a pup for a moment.  Her second favorite thing next to the Lake House is long road trips.  We even did an eight month road trip; just the two of us, back in 2008.

She was well at peace in her dog hammock in the backseat of her Outback.  I think she realized where we were going.  Like always about 30 minutes out she could smell the Lake and got very excited.  Until about 2 years ago she would have her head out the window, ears blowing in the wind when we would do this last bit of the drive.  That is not possible and she didn’t even try but I did pile the pillows so she could sniff that beautiful Southern air as we pulled in.

For the next day she had a grand time.  I had to watch her every step of the way and help her up and down but she was happy.  She had held on for this moment I think; just the two of us back at the lake.  I took her to the vet to organize her euthanasia and to get any comfort meds they thought would help.  He asked how long I wanted her (meaning days and no more than a week) and I said just give me a day so she can have visitors and one more day at the Lake.  He gave her a heavy-duty shot to make her more comfortable and we left.  Thankfully she has not been in pain anyway.  Her back-end has been going for months now and she is simply loosing feeling back there.

A X-Mas Bean

We only got one more full day and it was spent enjoying the sun and her getting all the love I could give; which was a lot.

The day we went to do it was very peacefully for her.  She slept most of the day and whenever someone would come to love on her she would sniff them from a laying position and back to sleep.  I have done most of my mourning and crying while she was still alive but man this sucks.  15 years is just not long enough. 

My dad drove us and I gave her a pill to chill her out but she really didn’t need it. She was content and ready to go.  I think if I had not taken her to the vet she would have gone on her own in the next day or two.

I sat in the backseat with her head in my lap and the windows down so her last memories would be of sweet Southern smells and her mama scratching her ears.  Who wouldn’t want that memory to take to Rainbow Bridge.   I am sure her Rainbow Bridge world is the South and leftovers from a Meat and 3!

I carried her in like a baby, said my good byes.  She was gone in seconds after the needle entered.  Peaceful as can be.

I love you baby girl.  We all love and miss you. 

For the next several weeks I spent with the family at the Lake.  It was actually really nice to have all that chaos going on around me.  Took my mind off the Bella Bean a bit.  We did have a great time. 

I did go down to Nashville for three days to see my peeps, eat good food and see if Nashville still had my heart.  It does.  Love that town.  I would like to move back on my return.

Best Bean Dog Qualities:
she wanted to be as fat as possible, she smiled, loved to bury herself in blankets, was scared of lightning, was a snuggle monkey, had to be touching a person at all times, never had to be on a leash, would take off running whenever she saw Cortney as we met her for our regular walks, she was always happy to see me, had to sleep under the covers and in bed with you, basically she was the best friend/dog a girl could ever have!

Visas for Togo/Benin, Well Endowed Generator, Back to States for The Bean Dog, Rollin Business Class (Accra, Ghana)

Bella Bean Dog

Of course I met up with Obehi again and yes he was still in the room next to me.  A new café run by a super nice German woman opened on the main drag while I was gone. It’s on the way down to the beach and called the Hayford Lounge.  Over the next couple days I would spend quite a bit of time here eating amazing food and getting out of the heat which is on the rise. 

Only back in Cape Coast for a couple days then heading back to Accra so I can get a visa or two and to cross the border into Togo.  I will miss Cape Coast.  I absolutely recommend a visit here.  I think it might be required when you visit Ghana.

A short taxi ride or medium walk is a place that has Ford Mini Vans with AC and comfy seats that head to Accra.  The price of a Tro to Accra would be 6 Cedi (US$3) and the mini vans are 15 (US$8).  The lap of luxury for me today; this would be considered a No Fanice Ride.  The people who take the mini vans are businessmen, students at university, and a couple well-dressed women.  Instead of basic cell phones they all have smart phones too I noticed.  One other interesting thing about this nice ride is that there are no Road Evangelist for a safe trip.  I guess it is no necessary to be blessed if you ride in a vehicle that meets safety standards.

I didn’t end up making a reservation in Accra and the couple places I called during the ride were full.  Oops.  These mini vans drop off a bit further from the city center.  I found a taxi and got a price set a bit higher than usual because I will have to have this guy drive me around and wait while I run into places until I find somewhere to rest my head. 

I want to stay in Osu this time.  Osu is the heart of the city dinning, shopping and nightlife.  There are a lot of expats living here because of all the food options I am assuming.  The hotels are also about 20-30% higher.  I did find a place for 60 Cedi (US$30) a night and I can’t remember the name of it at the moment.  Great rooms with bathroom and killer ac, flat screen and breakfast in the morning.  The great thing and what I have learned you look for is how big their generator is.  Even though the power is on more regularly now that Nigeria turned the power back on it still goes out a lot.  The place was well endowed in the generator department.

I will hang in Accra for about four days in order to pick up a visa for Benin and Togo.  I plan to enjoy the bustle of Osu District and maybe do a day trip somewhere…but for now it is off to bed for me. 

Oh, and I did go ahead and have dinner at the hotel…the only thing they had was chicken and rice but as it turned out it was delish.

NEXT DAY

Today I just wandered around Osu and had a long lunch with a couple coffees as the cutest little café while I watched the world go by.  Honestly nothing to write about. 

It was around 7ish when I got back and I decided to write in my journal and do some photo stuff while I kicked back with a couple beers.  There was a guy the night before having the same dinner as me but we didn’t chat.  I assumed he has working in Accra or Ghana in general as he just had that air about him…. looked to be late 40’s or early 50’s.

Tonight we decided to have our beers together and I was right late 40’s and has been working in Africa; mostly Ghana for about 20 years.   Like many Brits that have  spent a long time in Africa going back to the UK always takes adjusting to.  It seems a lot of expats just end up staying in Africa in the end.

Over the next couple days we hang out quite a bit wander Osu and Accra in general.  I did check out his new pad once and meet a couple of his friends that are also living there.  The apartments are pretty big…. huge living room, 2 bedrooms and bathroom and big kitchen…Paul’s apartment is on the second floor so he has a wrap around balcony too.  All these places are gated communities that you have to be buzzed into and an outer gate opens for you.  There is also a killer pool and bbq area.   That’s the life.  You would think that even a place like that would be reasonable in Ghana but no…. I think Paul said he pays 2,000 to 2,500 for it

Paul and I spent the next couple of days hanging out eating and chatting. 

Bella Bean at rest

I talked to my mother today and she said that Bella is super skinny and hasn’t eaten in a couple days.  After some time thinking about it I have decided to try and get back to Colorado so I can be the one to put her down.  She is my baby and knowing that I have time to get to her and maybe even spend a bit of quality time before the end makes it an easy decision especially since I have done a number of flights with frequent flyer points so far.  I will have to buy a ticket to come back and continue my journey but for now all I am thinking about is getting out of Accra and to my dog.

I found a frequent flyer flight in business class leaving tomorrow and after lots of talk on the phone with a representative (I had to trade in my Congo ticket and use most of the rest of my points) I got booked for tomorrow night’s flight.  I won’t know that I have a seat for sure until morning but there you go.  I spent the rest of the day wondering if I did the wrong thing by doing my trip when Bella was getting so old.  I realized that I couldn’t beat myself up about it.  Bella has had a spectacular life and it’s not like I left her at a kennel for two months…she has been with loving family.  I just hope I get at least a few days with her.

Paul and I went out for delicious Indian food tonight.  Actually one of the best I have had anywhere.   If I get back to Accra I have to hit this place up again.

The next day I just killed time until my flight.  Paul drove me to the airport.  It is a very odd feeling to be leaving.  I am almost two months into my trip and I am not ready for it to end but I want to get back.  Sometimes I am ready to head back from one of my big Sabbatical for several reasons.  I do love and miss my family and I am usually out of money. 

This time I am going back for only one reason; to end the life of my beloved dog. 

Rolling Business Class again.  Note to self:  I need to write a entry on how to get Business class for less than Economy when using Frequent Flyer points. 

I must admit that rollin back in business class does make the hurt a bit easier to bare.  Sipping champagne in a fully reclined position while stuffing my face with gourmet food gives me time to think about how amazing my dog is and how lucky I am to have found her.  Instead of dwelling on the fact that I am about to lose her I decide to think about all the  awesome times and how much fuller she made my life.  She is 15 and old age is unavoidable.

I am back and I will get several beautiful weeks with my baby dog.  Taking a break from my trip and losing a chunk of money is nothing to me now.  I would have been absolutely heartbroken if I had not come back. 

Good Bye Beyin, 3 Tro Tro/One Fan Ice Kinda Day, Big Blue Yutong Short Bus, Big Boobs and Yutong Preacher (Beyin, Ghana)

AND ANOTHER NEXT DAY

good bye Beyin

There are two choices for leaving Beyin.  There is a direct tro tro to Takaradi at 4am.  What, 4am, hell no.  I would rather take 5 tro tros and accidentally end up in Cote d’Ivoire than leave at 4am. 

As you might have guessed I choose the long way.  I had to take a tro tro to the ‘cross roads’ so I headed out with my pack in that direction just waiting to flag down the next tro heading my way.  Some guys at a chop bar told me to grab a tro going the other direction into the next town where I would get on another to Takaradi.  Apparently it takes longer to get to the town as you are backtracking but there is more chance of catching a ride.  Decided to kinda hang out and to just jump on the next tro no matter which direction it was heading.  The longer way won. 

The first tro took maybe 45 minute to get to somewhere.  There I jumped off and jumped on one going to Takaradi.  As usual the locals on my first tro made sure I was set up on the next one before they left.  It’s an entire country of nice people.    The next ride was a couple hours and I asked then to drop me before the station if they saw rides heading to Cape Coast along the way. 

I got dumped off on a street corner where there was a Big Blue Yutong Short Bus almost full.  Yippee for me and all on board…between myself and one other  and the beast was full.   This mini Yutong is actually going to Accra but will pass through Cape Coast.  Hope they remember I wanted to get off. 

A heavyset woman with a baby was sitting next to me.  Her boobs were gigantic.  Granted I am a wee thing and a C cup seems big to me.  Her baby was fussing because he was hungry and she was having trouble in the crowded bus with breast feeding so I helped her out a bit.  Just gave her my elbow to rest her tatas on to make things easier.  I felt so needed at that moment.  The Yutong had some ac and was only a One Fan Ice Ride. 

Oh, just remembered on big thing.  The Yutong Preacher singled me out to yell Amen.  Everyone was quite amused but I do what I am told.  It very well may have saved our lives that I did that plus I sill had my Good Luck Preacher Stone from that Big Yutong back in Kumasi.  Get me there safe and I will give you all the Amens I can muster.

Got back safe and sound, grabbed a cab to the Prospect were there is still no water and grabbed a bit to eat with Obehi.  He is like family now, the Nigerian brother I never had.

Happy Homeless Beach Dogs, Eco-Tourism and Canoe to Stilt Village

After an amazing, leisurely breakfast I headed to the beach for a few hours.  The resort has about 10 short tables with thatched umbrellas and lounge chairs.  Unlike many resorts this places if well off the beaten track near the border of Côte d'Ivoire so only a few locals passed during my chill time. 

Saw a group of four dogs running on the beach. 

lounging at the beach

First thing I noticed is that their tails where up and wagging, which is not something I see often in the third world/developing world.  I assumed they must belong to someone but the owner never appeared.  As they got closer I realized they were a pack of homeless beach dogs and they were well fed and happy as hell.  This is a first for me; happy, homeless beach dogs.  Watched and took pictures as they frolicked and dug for crabs then chased the crabs.  I felt honored to have witnessed this. 

Happy, homeless beach dogs playing with crabs

Around 10 I headed over to the Nzuezo Tour guide area and the guy from the bus ride in was there.  He would be my guide to the village.  Ghana has embraced eco-tourism and works hard to find a balance between preservation and tourism.  The silt village can only be accessed by canoe and you are required to take a guide.   Again I am the only tourist in town so it’s just the two of us.

It is the dry season at the moment so we have to walk about a half an hour to where we get the canoe.  During a large portion of the year you walk a mere five minutes to the canoes.  The first bit of the walk is a huge grass field.  There were men working to repair fences but these fences were haphazardly placed.  My guide said these were fishing fences.  During the rainy season the area were are walking is a shallow lake and those fences capture fish.  In about a month the rains will start and this meadow will become a lake.

Really wish I could come back and check it out in the rainy season.  One of my favorite things is to see a place, especially a place with extremes, in different seasons.  The best one yet was Russia.  I was there for a month in July camping and then did the Trans-Siberian and a month between Moscow and St. Petersburg in the winter.  What a difference.  Really must write about that one someday.

The canoe ride down the small river was very cool.  The entire trip was covered in a canopy of foliage and dragonflies and other water lovin’ bugs were abundant.  The river opened up into Lake Amansuri and I could see Nzeuzo in the distance.  Nzeuzo was created over 500 years ago and around 450 people live on the stilt village.  The village consists of two churches and a school complete with football pitch in the dry season.  

football pitch and school

Would love to take pictures once on the village but they no longer allow photography, which is great actually.  Can you imagine having daily tourists arriving at your home and in your hood snapping pictures? 

We only spent a half hour or so on Nzeuzo but that was all one really needs.  I did see there is a guesthouse there are well...that would be a pretty cool experience.  Since it is the dry season there are chickens running around in the mud that is the ground on the parts of the village that are closer to land.  Turns out that during the rainy season the chickens are put in floating chicken houses.  I bet they enjoy these months of dry.  The trip out was 20 Cedi and I gave a donation as well then tipped my guide 7 Cedi.  Typically he would have to walk the extra 10-15 minutes back to the tourist center but since it was just me I told him to go one home as I am more than capable of getting myself back.

Nzeuzo Stilt Village

Ate a super tasty pizza served on a ceramic cooking dish…. covered in tomatoes, onions, capsicums and more)…and as is the Ghana way the electricity went out in the middle of the night.  Another night with the door open…. will wait and tell my mother that one later.

NEXT DAY

I did stay another day here but there is absolutely nothing to tell.  Ate good food, read a good book and sat on the beach.  Hells Yeah!

Out of the open lake

 

Pizza at Beyin Beach Resort

Beyin Beach Resort, Stellar Mac N Cheez, Alone at a Resort, Happy Soul

Beyin Beach Resort

Yeeeha! Back in a Tro Tro to Takaradi (6 Cedi).  Once I got to Takaradi I had to grab a taxi to another Tro Tro station to get to Beyin in the far west near the border of Cote d’Ivoire.  Ended up paying 4 Cedi, which is too much but I really didn’t care.   

 The station for destinations West was pretty crazy…loved it.  Once again I was the only white chick around and as usual everyone was incredible helpful.  Everyone assumed I would likely be heading to Beyin so they led me to the correct ticket booth.  In no time I had sorted a ticket and found my Tro Tro for Beyin (6.5 Cedi). 

One of the young guys waiting or the Tro Tro spoke pretty good English and is a guide to Nzuezo, the stilt village that makes this area famous.   It is a much smaller destination and it can take a long time to fill a Tro but I got lucky and it was full in about a half hour.  Grabbed a couple chocolate Fan Ice for the road cuz it was scorching hot and it was a two Fan Ice kinda ride. 

The ride to Beyin was super hot but lovely.  About an hour or less out we hit a dirt road for the rest of the journey.  I felt like I was getting well away from it all.  At one point a huge clear-cut area appeared with construction going on.  It didn’t take long to figure out it was a Chinese outfit.  It was insane the amount of building going on so far off the beaten track.   I later found out it is yet another oil drilling project.  

 As it turns out Beyin is a sleepy little coastal town.  Only way in is a dirt road for a good half hour.  As we rolled into town I knew there would be limited trips back out.  I was the last one on the Tro Tro and the driver was kind enough to drive me to the edge of town where the Beyin Beach Resort is found. 

After jumping out of the truck and following the direction of the driver gave me which where something like ‘go that way and have fun’.  I headed towards the beach on yet another dirt footpath and asked a couple people where to go and Voilà! I was there. 

my hut

The resort is absolutely gorgeous.  An elevated, wooden footpath leads to an open-air bar/reception area surrounded by thatched roof seating areas with tables for dinning.   I am the only guest as it is the off-season and the middle of the week...a resort to myself.  Apparently this joint was packed out just the day before with weekend vacation seekers. 

Following the wooden footpath leads to shared toilets and showers and eventually to the sleeping huts.  I booked into a two person shared hut but I remained the only guest so didn’t have to share the digs.  Thankfully each room has a fan but like a lot of Ghana the power was out about half the time.

The deal with places like this is you put in your dinner order before five so it’s ready to go by six or seven.  The Beyin Beach Resort has a stellar menu so I decide to do something I haven’t in a long time…each Western food.  The first night I order up some Mac N Cheez.  Time will tell if this is a good decision or not. 

Two hours later…. OMG the Mac N Cheez is off the hook.  Such a happy tummy.  

Spend a bit of time enjoying the ocean night sky before heading to bed.  The power was off again and even though I was alone at this remote resort at night I felt comfortable leaving the door open for that cool ocean breeze to act as my fan.

See Ya Mole, Water Shortage, and Heading West

The only bus out of Mole National Park leaves at 4am.  Not thrilled about it but it is what it is.  Five of us walked in the dark to the pick up spot with sleep still in our eyes.  So the story is that the bus leaves at 4am if the driver wakes up at 4am.  We did get lucky and he woke up by 4:15 and we were off. 

It was dark out, raining and cool.  Actually managed to get a wee bit of sleep.  The ride back to town was uneventful and we were lucky to be the first stop.  The bus to Tamale was full and standing room only by the second stop. 

Chill day in Tamale.  We were back in town about 10am; I bought my ticket back to Kumasi for the next day and headed back to our hotel.  It was a catch up on writing and photos kind of day for me.  Sorry no baboon attacks or crazy Swedes to mention.

Did dinner at a chop bar a block from the hotel and our ‘hotel cat’ was there waiting for us.  Met a Ghanaian woman who had been living in DC suburbs for past 11 years.  She was there to introduce her children to the rest of the family.  It was apparent that her 7 and 10 year old were American (well at least Westerners).  They were freaked by the fact they had to jump over a drain ditch to get to the chop bar and they were sick of chicken and rice.  The woman on the other hand was desperate to move back to Ghana after her two-week visit.  She shad that for the past nine years she has been on high blood pressure medicine and within 10 days in Ghana she was off it.  Us Westerners tend to think those in the third world and developing world want to move our way…. not true.

Chicken and Rice at that joint were only 3Cedi and wicked good.

NEXT DAY

Got up early to get my 7 am bus to Kumasi.  STC buses are always nice; ac, big seats and safe.  We did have a blow out but the bus made it to a rest area so everyone could eat and pee while it was getting fixed. 

Got to Kumasi only an hour late and checked back in to Treasureland for one more night before heading back to The Coast. 

The ride back was on a STC again so very comfortable and uneventful.  I check back into The Prospect to find out that the whole of Cape Coast was out of water and had been for days.  No rain so the river was empty and there is no back up plane for things like that in Ghana.  Turns out that the edges of Cape Coast had been out of water for weeks and it had finally hit the city center.

Daily water supply

Thankfully The Prospect brings a bucket and a huge container of water each day, which is enough to bath and flush the toilet once maybe twice a day.  Someone on the staff has to gather all these huge containers and go somewhere for hours each day to get us water.  I have no clue how far or how much they pay to get the water but they are gone a good half day.

I was back in room 116 with the bed bugs again and yes, I was eaten alive again.   This time I spoke up and they sprayed my room and Obehi’s room as they were next door to each other.  I spent the next couple days in comfort without a single bed bug bite…. Nice.

So, Obehi and I took bets on when the last time people had showered.  We based this not only on odor but on the level of scratching people were doing.  Oh, what becomes entertainment when the water drys up in Ghana. 

I am heading further west tomorrow…Far West.