Good Morning Passau!, Long Walk, Yummy Food X2 (Passau, Germany)

Passau view

Good Morning, my sweet Passau. 

I walked for many miles today…covered a huge chunk of this magnificent little corner of the World.  During my walk I did do a practical thing…. I found a long sleeve button up shirt that won’t show sweat for the Africa portion of my trip.  I know it sounds odd to hunt for a sweat hiding shirt but dude Africa be HOT!  Actually the heat in Europe right now is more intense than the Ghana temperatures I dealt with two months ago.  I also found a huge electronics store in the mall while trying to get to the train station.  A super helpful guy helped me find a SD card converter, a case that actually fits my dual Sim phone and a micro SD card for the dual Sim phone.  Quite successful housekeeping outing if I do say so.

Finally made it to the train station and scooped up a ticket to Vienna for tomorrow.  Hopefully I meet up with the family for a few minutes before I leave town.  I have no clue what time they dock in Passau so fingers crossed we can get some hugs and coffee in.

Tasty Salad

I ended up walking along the waterfront for quite a while to the University of Passau.  I discovered a lovely footbridge and decided it needed to be crossed but the smells wafting from a tiny café at the foot of the bridge lead me and my empty tummy inside to investigate.  Cappuccino to accompany my vegetable quiche and salad was a much-needed sidebar to my fantastic but hot day.  The quiche was absolutely amazing and the salad was picture perfect (8.80 Euro).

I took some great pictures as I crossed the bridge and a tiny nun with a beautiful smile said something wonderful to me in German.  No clue what she said but it made me very happy. 

Quiche Baby!

So, who knew, but the other side of Passau is just as picturesque as the main part of town but very few tourists cross over.  It always amazes me how quickly you can get out of the tourist mass even in the high season.  I managed to wander away two hours on the ‘other side’.   There are churches, a cemetery, gorgeous streets and a brilliant view of the main side of Passau. 

I headed back to the Wilder Mann to rest my toes after 4-5 hours of straight walking.  Rested up and hungry again I head back to the restaurant I visited on my first night here where Weiner Shnitzl.  Just to let you know Weiner Schnitzel is the national dish of Austria...I guess I had better eat some when I'm there eh?  Sat outside again to people watch and ordered a beer and Gulashsuppe (Hungarian Goulash).  I am almost certain it is illegal here to NOT have a beer with dinner and I like to follow the rules.  I often see people having beer with breakfast in Germany.  The soup was outstanding and I am quite certain that pretzel bread should be served at every meal.  Germany has made the short list as a top contender for favorite food destinations. 

Footbridge, Passau

I had the amazing

Passau In the Summer, St. Stephen's Cathedral, and a Lovely River Cruise (Passau, Germany)

July 29

Wilder Mann Hotel

Unless you stay in a higher end hotel it is unlikely that you will have air conditioning which during a normal European Summer is not big deal.  This summer is an absolute scorcher in Europe.  I am sleeping on top of the blankets and just praying for a breeze to run through the open window.  Thankfully at some point in the night it cooled off a bit.

The breakfast room at the Wilder Mann is on the top floor and a total maze to get to.  They even have signs pointing out the path to food.  The room itself is an old Victorian style set up with ceiling to floor windows covering two full walls which makes for spectacular views of the city.

The food was decent but not as good as the amazing setups I have gotten use to at the last two places.  That being said it was worth the 7 Euros I paid.  After a long breakfast and coffee I took advantage of the wrap around balcony on the breakfast floor and soaked up the views. 

I wandered the city’s narrow, cobblestone streets which are shadowed by the pastel washed building.  Passau is  on the top of my ‘beautiful cities’ list to be sure.  It is difficult to take a bad picture here. 

Walking Passau, Germany

I took my first walk break at St. Stephen’s Cathedral, which is said to have the world’s largest organ.  St. Stephen's Cathedral is a baroque church built in 1688.  The church is said to have the largest organ outside the United States.  got there 30 minutes before the afternoon concert. There are two organ concerts a day and it was packed out by the time it began.  Many river cruises stop here and St. Steven’s Cathedral is high on the tourist list.  I had plenty of time to take in the beautiful architecture and baroque paintings.   There is no need to worry about where you sit here; the acoustics are incredible throughout.    

St. Stephen's Cathedral

I only had a half hour before my 2-hour cruise of the Danube so I wiggle my way to the waterfront along whatever cobblestone path is heading down to the river.   Yesterday, when I arrived, it was insanely quiet in Passau.  Apparently it was due to the time I arrived and because it was Sunday.  Today, there are tourist groups everywhere with a flag holding tour guide at the head.  It appears that Passau gets a lot of its tourist from the river cruising that is so popular here. 

Decided to do the Kristallschiff River Cruise which last two hours.  Got my ticket (13.80 Euro) and boarded.  What the hell, this thing looks straight out of a movie.  It is the most opulent boat I have ever seen.  There are chandeliers everywhere and the floors are inlayed with crystals.  I decide to sit inside, as I really need a break from the heat.   The cruise will go from Passau to Kasten, Austria to Obernezell and back again. 

I had a beer and watch the view out the gigantic windows.  This mini cruise on the Danube was well worth it. 

Along the Danube on a river cruise

I spent the rest of the day wandering around and ended up coming back to the hotel a bit early, as the rains are a coming.  I plan to get an early start tomorrow to see more sights and grab a ticket to Vienna. 

Marriage Carousel, Paussau or Bust, Another Late Train (Nuremberg, Germany)

Last Meal in Nuremberg

The family doesn’t leave until early evening and my train to Passau leaves at 14:00ish so we head off in search of the Marriage Fountain.  It’s actually called the Marriage Carousel or Ehekarussell in German.  This amazing piece was created by Jurgen Weber and erected in 1984.  It refers to a poem by Hans Sachs entitled ‘Bitter-Sweet Married Life’.  I spent 30 minutes walking around this fascinating piece checking out all the incredible details.  If you like sculptures then I would hunt this one down while in Nuremberg.  

Marriage Carousel

Marriage Carousel

ICE Goodies

Kissed the family goodbye until the next port and heading out on my five-minute walk to the train station.  As it turns out my train is running 40 minutes late.  The ICE staff brought us poor waiting souls water and popsicles to tide us over.  It did the trick.  I was so happy with my goodies on this hot day that I didn’t care my train was late.

The passing landscape was a combination of forests, countryside and small towns.  Well worth the four Euro extra for an assigned seat next to a window. 

Arrived in Passau an hour late and the taxi stand had more people than taxis.  It took about 15 minutes to grab one and as it turned out the couple waiting next to me were also going to the Hotel Wilder Mann…. love when you can share a cab.

Arrived at the Wilder Mann in less than 10 minutes.  Most things in the tiny town are moments away.  Just that short trip and the brief moment out of the cab I can tell Passau is a very special place.  Picture perfect at every turn. 

The Hotel Wilder Mann shares space with the Glass Museum, which adds to its castle like feel.  The hotel is very quaint.  My single room is on the fourth floor and up the cement-winding staircase I go.  It is a bit of a maze trying to get around this hotel, which I adore.  My room is very small but super adorable with a big window and decent bathroom.  It feels very ‘Passauie’ in this room.  Like the others the breakfast is included and I can’t wait to see what it’s like. 

One additional thing I noticed off the bat about this hotel and will see all over the city in days to come is the extensive flood damage sustained just months ago.  It was the worst in History, which dates back to the 1500 round these parts.

It’s getting late so I head out in search of dinner after a long walk along the waterfront.  The whitewashed buildings with pastel trim are absolutely adorable.  I want to decorate my next place like Passau feels.  I stop at a restaurant on the water for dinner.  Pork schnitzel for me and of courses a good sturdy German beer.  My extremely tall, blond server was particularly nice.  A thing I never knew back home is that schnitzel should be doused in with a good squeeze of a lemon to set off the flavors.  Delish!  (10.8 Euro)

Enjoyed the rest of my beer as the sunset and headed back to my cozy room for a good but hot nights sleep.

Train Tickets, Ice Cream, Music Fest, and Scary Dungeons (Nuremberg, Germany)

My sister Mayah and I got up earlier than everyone and after the two of use ate breakfast we went to the train station to get my ticket to Passau and ice cream to boot. 

Nuremberg on a Saturday at the height of summer with a music festival going on is a wickedly packed place.  Oh the people watching that will be done today.   By the way, what up with wearing back pantyhose when it is nearly 100 degrees out…why are we wearing cloths at all?

Mom was doing a little shopping so the rest of us decided to grab a bite to eat at the concessions for the music festival.  Meika was in heaven because we found a noodle and rice vendor.  Yummers…. would rather do sausage but noodles good too. 

Next stop was the dungeons.  We waited 30 minutes for the tour in German to begin.  All of five minutes down the tunnels both the girls freaked out, next thing we are back outside.  Oh well.

Spent the rest of the day people watching in cafes, playing in water fountain and drinking wine…beginning to think this is the good life.   I leave the family tomorrow for Passau and if all goes well I will see them there before I head to Vienna.  They board their 8-day Viking Cruise along the Rhine tomorrow and I plan to stalk them at every port in-between here and Budapest.

Stellar Breakfast, 2-Headed Baby Doll, Dead Rabbit Sculpture, More Tasty Eats (Nuremberg, Germany)

Lunch on Tiergartnertorplatz

The breakfast at Hotel Victoria was stellar.  The breakfast room has high ceilings and huge picture windows, which make it light and inviting.  You can also choose to sit outside if you can find an empty table.  There were many delicious choices including eggs, bacon, many breads, vegetables, fruits, several flavors of yogurt and cereals, juices and as always many cold cuts and cheeses.  I stuck with a pot of coffee but mom opted for a cappuccino.  This is the kind of breakfast I need to have everyday. 

Two Headed Doll at Toy Museum

First stop is to the Toy Museum.  It is three floors of antique and modern toys.  It houses a large doll collection, which totally wigged me out.  I have always hated dolls as I did and still see them as tiny, demon transmitting vessels from hell.  My fear of dolls was only amplified by this place.  There was a two-headed doll and also one that was positioned to crawl like a crab with belly to the air.  That is only the two most terrorizing, believe me there were more. 

Off to the Castle we go.  There is lots of cool castly things in the museum…. medieval weapons, armor, and other knights in shinning armor stuff.  We also went to the top of the tower, which gave fantastic views of the city. 

Another crappy history lesson:

There is a record of a castle at this location as early as 1105 and King Conrad III had a second built on the site in 1140.  In the 13^th Century Nuremberg became an Imperial Free City thus becoming the care of the city.  During WWII the castle was sadly damaged and only the Roman Double Chapel and Sinwell Tower survived.  It was restored after the war.

Durer Hare

We now head off along the numerous cobble-stoned streets that line the old city in search of the Dead Rabbit sculpture.  The sculpture is actually called Durer Hare and has sat in Tiergartnertorplatz since 1984.  It is a bronze and done by sculpture Jurgen Goertz.  Durer Hare is an odd little dude but very much worth a must see in my book.

We finally stumbled upon the Rabbit accidentally.  We were hungry and stopped to eat on Tiergartnertoplatz but there was some roadwork or cobblestone work being done and didn’t see it until the work truck moved and Little Dead Dude was reveled.

Nuremberg Castle

For lunch I had boiled sausage again…. can’t get enough of it.  Mom had potato pancakes with delicious applesauce.  Seriously why is the food so good here?

Mustn’t forget that it is ridiculously hot here right now.  Back at the hotel we had drinks and let the girls place in the fountain to cool off.   The play lasted only a few minutes before all were back at the table as Meika had kept her flip-flops on and taken a mighty spill.  She didn’t even cry and the cut was a good one, on the verge of needing stitches.  Cortney, the good little nurse, took perfect care of the injury and brave little Meika was good to go.  Her knee will bother her a bit the next few days but healed up well.

There was a major music festival going on and it was almost impossible to find food in the evening.  Germans do know how to have a good time that is for sure.  In the end we went back to our Lederhosen wearing server for dinner. Cortney and I split that beautiful salad again and a pork wiener schnitzel.  Once again a brilliant meal. 

View from the Castle

 

Freak Flip Flop Fountain Injury

Trains, Family Reunion, Tasty Sausage, Lederhosen, and a Crappy History Lesson (Nuremberg, Germany)

Window Seat view, very sad!

The train ICE 27 to Nuremberg took 4 ½ hours and cost 86 Euro.  I do enjoy a good train ride but I reserved a window seat and got a wall (I will remember to double check the position of my window seat next time). 

I will meet The Family at the train station as the Frankfurt train arrives around the same time I do….well I assume anyway since we gave each other ISH times for our arrivals.  

 About two hours into the trip my train made a stop in Frankfurt and what to my wandering eyes did appear but two super cute Chinese girls heading towards the back of the train.  I sent mom a text and yes that was my beautiful little sisters I saw....we were on the same train.  Maybe because we have met up with each other so many times in the past we didn’t bother to find each other for the next two hours of the trip.  I mean, I did just see then four days ago in Colorado. 

The Family

Looks like a long trip for Cort so far!

When we got off I headed to the first class car and met up with My People.  Even though only a few days had passed since I left the States it was still cool to meet them there.  The hotel was just across from the train station in the old historic part of town.   I do love when you can walk to your hotel from the train.

Hotel Victoria is absolutely lovely but a bit too modern on the inside for my taste.  They do go a bit overboard with the orange color scheme but it rocks for comfort and amenities.  We have a family room, which has a double bed, two twins and they added a cot for little old late add-on me.  It is huge and there is  a massive balcony overlooking a square with a very active water fountain that kids can play in.  The bathtub is extra deep and right out in the open so if you want to take a bath all in the room will see you.  The shower is off set but no door so if someone in tub or at the sink they too would get a nice view of your bits and pieces. There is also a huge deck overlooking the square complete with tables and umbrella.  Can't wait to check out the included breakfast tomorrow.

It is insanely hot in Germany and most of Europe right now.  It would normally be in high 70-s-low or 80’s but it is in the high 90’s.  The fact that very few hotels in Europe have ac doesn’t help matters but luckily mom had requested extra fans.

After catching up and chilling for a bit we decided to wander the city a bit and grab a bite to eat.  Nuremberg is a beautiful, history city made famous throughout the world for the Nazi Occupation and the Nuremberg Trails. 

the deck at Hotel Victoria

Insanely quick Nuremberg history lesson skipping 80 % of it’s past:

Nuremberg is situated in the German State of Bavaria and lies on the Pengnitz and Rhine rivers.  Nuremberg played a major role during the Nazi Germany era.  Due to it’s relevance to the Holy Roman Empire and it’s central location the Nazi Party choose it as the site of the massive Nazi Part conventions also know as The Nuremberg Rallies.

It was also an important site for military production.  There was major devastation to the city during the war years. 

Nuremberg is probably best known for the Nuremberg Trails between 1945-1946 when German officials involved in the Holocaust and other war crimes were brought to trail before an international tribunal.  The Soviet Union wanted the trails to be held in Berlin but Nuremberg was chosen instead for several   Firstly, it’s location of the Nazi Party’s Nuremberg Rallies where laws that stripped Jews of their citizenship where passed.  Secondly because the Palace of Justice was very big and undamaged fro the war.  Lastly a compromised was made and Berlin would be the seat of International Military Tribunals. 

reasons.

Told ya, crazy quick history leaving out most of Nuremberg’s history.  Wikipedia is a good source for more basic information.

Anyway back to our first half-day.  As you know from my terrible history lesson most of the city was destroyed during the war but a massive effort was made to restore it to its former glory.  It is a beautiful city and we all enjoyed walking around even the touristy bits. 

Steak dinner

Found a cute cobblestone area with shops and restaurants geared to tourist but still wonderfully charming just around the corner from the hotel.  We sat at at a picnic like table at one of the traditional German eateries.  I had boiled Nuremberg Style Sausage with boiled onions and my sister Cortney got the grilled version with sauerkraut so we could share.  It was served with pretzel bread and mustard and a beautiful salad.  This was all served by a straight out of Sound of Music, lederhosen wearing server.  It was so crazy good that I would crave and eat it again before my departure.  From what I gather the Nuremberg style is small sausage the size of a Jimmy Dean at home.  You order then in 6 or 12’s.  My tummy is sooo happy right now especially since we washed it all down with a local beer.

Nuremberg Sagauge

What a great day.

Museums that Inspire, Hate Minimalist Art and Tasty Grub (Cologne, Germany)

Another long, yummy breakfast to get the day started right. 

The great thing about staying near the train station is that I was able to grab a ticket to Nuremburg while I passed through the station to start my day.

Jumped off the Hop On/Off at Rautenstrauch-Joest-Museum on Nuermarkt because they had an exhibit called ‘14 days in Benin’ by photographer Albert Watson.  It was a wonderful exhibit and glad I added it to my day.  It got me stocked for the Western Africa portion of this trip to be sure.

Turns out this is a pretty cool museum in general.  I spent quite a bit of time in the regular exhibit on World Culture.  It covered everything from culture, language and customs.  They also had an area on Burkina Faso dealing with the masks, costumes and dance rituals.  Like the Benin exhibit this bit got me pumped for Burkina too. 

Lunch at Ludwig Museum

Back on the bus and to the center of town to check out Museum Ludwig.  This museum covers Pop art, Modern and Minimalist arts.  I enjoyed all but the minimalist art.  Minimalist art sucks at least for me.  I have never liked it and just don’t get it…. I too can paint a canvas black. 

I grabbed a delicious quiche, salad and local wine while people watching at the Museum Ludwig Café. 

Just those few things on the itinerary lead to another wonderful, long day.