Passau In the Summer, St. Stephen's Cathedral, and a Lovely River Cruise (Passau, Germany)

July 29

Wilder Mann Hotel

Unless you stay in a higher end hotel it is unlikely that you will have air conditioning which during a normal European Summer is not big deal.  This summer is an absolute scorcher in Europe.  I am sleeping on top of the blankets and just praying for a breeze to run through the open window.  Thankfully at some point in the night it cooled off a bit.

The breakfast room at the Wilder Mann is on the top floor and a total maze to get to.  They even have signs pointing out the path to food.  The room itself is an old Victorian style set up with ceiling to floor windows covering two full walls which makes for spectacular views of the city.

The food was decent but not as good as the amazing setups I have gotten use to at the last two places.  That being said it was worth the 7 Euros I paid.  After a long breakfast and coffee I took advantage of the wrap around balcony on the breakfast floor and soaked up the views. 

I wandered the city’s narrow, cobblestone streets which are shadowed by the pastel washed building.  Passau is  on the top of my ‘beautiful cities’ list to be sure.  It is difficult to take a bad picture here. 

Walking Passau, Germany

I took my first walk break at St. Stephen’s Cathedral, which is said to have the world’s largest organ.  St. Stephen's Cathedral is a baroque church built in 1688.  The church is said to have the largest organ outside the United States.  got there 30 minutes before the afternoon concert. There are two organ concerts a day and it was packed out by the time it began.  Many river cruises stop here and St. Steven’s Cathedral is high on the tourist list.  I had plenty of time to take in the beautiful architecture and baroque paintings.   There is no need to worry about where you sit here; the acoustics are incredible throughout.    

St. Stephen's Cathedral

I only had a half hour before my 2-hour cruise of the Danube so I wiggle my way to the waterfront along whatever cobblestone path is heading down to the river.   Yesterday, when I arrived, it was insanely quiet in Passau.  Apparently it was due to the time I arrived and because it was Sunday.  Today, there are tourist groups everywhere with a flag holding tour guide at the head.  It appears that Passau gets a lot of its tourist from the river cruising that is so popular here. 

Decided to do the Kristallschiff River Cruise which last two hours.  Got my ticket (13.80 Euro) and boarded.  What the hell, this thing looks straight out of a movie.  It is the most opulent boat I have ever seen.  There are chandeliers everywhere and the floors are inlayed with crystals.  I decide to sit inside, as I really need a break from the heat.   The cruise will go from Passau to Kasten, Austria to Obernezell and back again. 

I had a beer and watch the view out the gigantic windows.  This mini cruise on the Danube was well worth it. 

Along the Danube on a river cruise

I spent the rest of the day wandering around and ended up coming back to the hotel a bit early, as the rains are a coming.  I plan to get an early start tomorrow to see more sights and grab a ticket to Vienna. 

Stellar Breakfast, 2-Headed Baby Doll, Dead Rabbit Sculpture, More Tasty Eats (Nuremberg, Germany)

Lunch on Tiergartnertorplatz

The breakfast at Hotel Victoria was stellar.  The breakfast room has high ceilings and huge picture windows, which make it light and inviting.  You can also choose to sit outside if you can find an empty table.  There were many delicious choices including eggs, bacon, many breads, vegetables, fruits, several flavors of yogurt and cereals, juices and as always many cold cuts and cheeses.  I stuck with a pot of coffee but mom opted for a cappuccino.  This is the kind of breakfast I need to have everyday. 

Two Headed Doll at Toy Museum

First stop is to the Toy Museum.  It is three floors of antique and modern toys.  It houses a large doll collection, which totally wigged me out.  I have always hated dolls as I did and still see them as tiny, demon transmitting vessels from hell.  My fear of dolls was only amplified by this place.  There was a two-headed doll and also one that was positioned to crawl like a crab with belly to the air.  That is only the two most terrorizing, believe me there were more. 

Off to the Castle we go.  There is lots of cool castly things in the museum…. medieval weapons, armor, and other knights in shinning armor stuff.  We also went to the top of the tower, which gave fantastic views of the city. 

Another crappy history lesson:

There is a record of a castle at this location as early as 1105 and King Conrad III had a second built on the site in 1140.  In the 13^th Century Nuremberg became an Imperial Free City thus becoming the care of the city.  During WWII the castle was sadly damaged and only the Roman Double Chapel and Sinwell Tower survived.  It was restored after the war.

Durer Hare

We now head off along the numerous cobble-stoned streets that line the old city in search of the Dead Rabbit sculpture.  The sculpture is actually called Durer Hare and has sat in Tiergartnertorplatz since 1984.  It is a bronze and done by sculpture Jurgen Goertz.  Durer Hare is an odd little dude but very much worth a must see in my book.

We finally stumbled upon the Rabbit accidentally.  We were hungry and stopped to eat on Tiergartnertoplatz but there was some roadwork or cobblestone work being done and didn’t see it until the work truck moved and Little Dead Dude was reveled.

Nuremberg Castle

For lunch I had boiled sausage again…. can’t get enough of it.  Mom had potato pancakes with delicious applesauce.  Seriously why is the food so good here?

Mustn’t forget that it is ridiculously hot here right now.  Back at the hotel we had drinks and let the girls place in the fountain to cool off.   The play lasted only a few minutes before all were back at the table as Meika had kept her flip-flops on and taken a mighty spill.  She didn’t even cry and the cut was a good one, on the verge of needing stitches.  Cortney, the good little nurse, took perfect care of the injury and brave little Meika was good to go.  Her knee will bother her a bit the next few days but healed up well.

There was a major music festival going on and it was almost impossible to find food in the evening.  Germans do know how to have a good time that is for sure.  In the end we went back to our Lederhosen wearing server for dinner. Cortney and I split that beautiful salad again and a pork wiener schnitzel.  Once again a brilliant meal. 

View from the Castle

 

Freak Flip Flop Fountain Injury