Passau In the Summer, St. Stephen's Cathedral, and a Lovely River Cruise (Passau, Germany)

July 29

Wilder Mann Hotel

Unless you stay in a higher end hotel it is unlikely that you will have air conditioning which during a normal European Summer is not big deal.  This summer is an absolute scorcher in Europe.  I am sleeping on top of the blankets and just praying for a breeze to run through the open window.  Thankfully at some point in the night it cooled off a bit.

The breakfast room at the Wilder Mann is on the top floor and a total maze to get to.  They even have signs pointing out the path to food.  The room itself is an old Victorian style set up with ceiling to floor windows covering two full walls which makes for spectacular views of the city.

The food was decent but not as good as the amazing setups I have gotten use to at the last two places.  That being said it was worth the 7 Euros I paid.  After a long breakfast and coffee I took advantage of the wrap around balcony on the breakfast floor and soaked up the views. 

I wandered the city’s narrow, cobblestone streets which are shadowed by the pastel washed building.  Passau is  on the top of my ‘beautiful cities’ list to be sure.  It is difficult to take a bad picture here. 

Walking Passau, Germany

I took my first walk break at St. Stephen’s Cathedral, which is said to have the world’s largest organ.  St. Stephen's Cathedral is a baroque church built in 1688.  The church is said to have the largest organ outside the United States.  got there 30 minutes before the afternoon concert. There are two organ concerts a day and it was packed out by the time it began.  Many river cruises stop here and St. Steven’s Cathedral is high on the tourist list.  I had plenty of time to take in the beautiful architecture and baroque paintings.   There is no need to worry about where you sit here; the acoustics are incredible throughout.    

St. Stephen's Cathedral

I only had a half hour before my 2-hour cruise of the Danube so I wiggle my way to the waterfront along whatever cobblestone path is heading down to the river.   Yesterday, when I arrived, it was insanely quiet in Passau.  Apparently it was due to the time I arrived and because it was Sunday.  Today, there are tourist groups everywhere with a flag holding tour guide at the head.  It appears that Passau gets a lot of its tourist from the river cruising that is so popular here. 

Decided to do the Kristallschiff River Cruise which last two hours.  Got my ticket (13.80 Euro) and boarded.  What the hell, this thing looks straight out of a movie.  It is the most opulent boat I have ever seen.  There are chandeliers everywhere and the floors are inlayed with crystals.  I decide to sit inside, as I really need a break from the heat.   The cruise will go from Passau to Kasten, Austria to Obernezell and back again. 

I had a beer and watch the view out the gigantic windows.  This mini cruise on the Danube was well worth it. 

Along the Danube on a river cruise

I spent the rest of the day wandering around and ended up coming back to the hotel a bit early, as the rains are a coming.  I plan to get an early start tomorrow to see more sights and grab a ticket to Vienna. 

Kick-Ass Hotel, Chocolate, Chocolate and More Chocolate! (Cologne, Germany)

The Cathedral

The Hotel Branderburger Hof is no more than five minutes from the train station, which in Cologne is a prime spot for sight seeing.  I booked into a single room with shared bathroom/shower for under $60US.  The room is tiny but more than adequate for my needs.  It has a comfy bed with super soft pillows, a closet, mirror and sink, as well as a flat screen TV, blow-dryer and baby soaps and the whatnot.  In my three days here I never had to wait for the shared toilet or shower.  

The Branderburger Hof is a family run joint.  Nice old building just like I prefer.  The breakfast (included) is outstanding.  It will be the best I have in Europe over my six weeks.  The buffet included eggs, bacon, 5 plus meat, 5 plus cheeses, 5 plus types of bread, several juices, milk, fruits, yogurts, vegetables and pots of fresh brewed coffee delivered to your table in silver pots.  The eating room was lovely as well or you could opt to eat outside and an equally charming spot.

Grabbed a map from the front desk and was off on my first day of touring around Europe.  After all the delays I was super stoked. 

I decided to do the Hop On Hop Off Bus (2 days plus cruise for 23 Euro).  I always love the hop on hop off deals.  It’s the best way to get familiar with a new city.  I typically do the full tour before starting to hop on and off.  The full tour is under two hours and gives great insight into the history of Cologne. 

As the next round began the driver told me it was going to rain later and very likely tomorrow so I decide to hop off at the third stop and do the river cruise first. 

Old Vending Machine

After the cruise I headed to the Chocolate Museum (8 Euro); included in the price in a lovely piece of Lindts chocolate to start you off right.  This museum is an absolute must if you visit Cologne.  It is very detailed and full of fun and interesting facts especially if you are into collocate…and by the way who isn’t.    It covers everything for the history, culture and impact of chocolate on this world. There is even a small Lindt factory inside the museum. 

There was a section of the museum dedicated to old chocolate vending machines.  One of them was a working model and I spent 1 Euro on a bar of Lindt White Chocolate. 

Interesting chocolate tidbit:  Mr. Lindt invented milky, creamy chocolate by accident.  He left the couching machine on over the long weekend.  A couching machine scrapes the surface and agitates chocolate while distributing cocoa butter into the chocolate.  When he came back two days later to see his mistake it was discovered that by agitating the chocolate much longer it gave it a creamy texture…and modern chocolate was born.

Chocolate Museum Store

The mini factory was super cool.  Watching the chocolate process all the way to completion.  There of course is a killer chocolate store attached to the museum.  I perused for quite sometime before deciding on a rose infused truffle.  I knew it was a mistake to buy it with the heat the way it was but…by they time I got back to the hotel hours later my chocolate bar and truffle were a soupy mess at the bottom of my bag…yes, I licked the bag clean…judge me, I dare you.

The chocolate theme does not end here.  I completed this journey at the Chocolate Museum Café…. what do you think I had for lunch?  Dessert for lunch, you are correct.  The café overlooks the Rhine River and is a brilliant place to enjoy a lunch or chocolate lunch.  I partook of the Chocolate Noir (a chocolate mousse covered in a dark chocolate layer and garnished with a yellow, cherry tomato). 

Chocolate Noir at Chocolate Museum Cafe

I had to burn some of this sugar out of my system so I walked the city for a while in the crazy heat.  I eventually jump back on a Hop on Hop off to rest my body…it started to pour and I decided to just stay on board and enjoy the cool off.  I was at the back of the bus with a British couple who where wicked hot too and loved the rain.  It must have dropped 20 degrees. 

It was about seven when I got back to my area and I grabbed a baguette with Camembert, cucumber and tomato for dinner.  I was totally done by the time I got back…love days like that.

I got a txt from The Family that they had arrived in Frankfurt.  I will meet up with them in Nuremberg the day after tomorrow.

Happy as a Dung Beetle in Sh#*!t,Happy Elephants, Walking Safari, Gun-Toting Guide and all before Breakfast

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Free to be me...the life of a charmed elephant (as it should be for all)

ALL BEFORE BREAKFAST

Woke up today like an excited kid ready for their first day at Disney Land.  Before breakfast we head out on a walking safari.  Mole National Park is unique in the fact that it is the only easily accessible wildlife park in Africa.  Anyone on any travel budget can do this place.  The walking safari is less than $10. 

There were about seven of us in our group and our shotgun-toting guide was a wealth of information on the park and it’s four legged and winged residents.  Right from the get-go we came across my first ‘African Elephant’.  I have seen many elephants on my travels throughout Asia but never in the wild.  Unfortunately, in Asia, it is difficult to find wild elephants…they are all used as work animals.  What a beautiful thing to see one just doing her thing.  The people who live within the bounds of the national park respect the animals.  The influx of tourist dollars is a driving motivator to the care of the animals of Mole National Park. 

We also ran across a Reedbuck just chilling, taking in the beautiful day.  As we left the village for a trail a car drove by a spooked the elephant.   She took off trumpeting and running after the car.  I could feel the ground tremble, amazing.

We walked the savanna for a couple hours amongst Reedbuck, Bushbuck and many other antelopes.  The birds were too numerous to begin to identify but I did catch site of a few Kingfishers, which I adore.  Our walk led us to a watering hole that is viewable from the Mole Motel. 

There were six elephants bathing and playing at the watering hole when we arrived.  I couldn’t stop snapping pictures.  It reminded me of the first time I say kangaroos in Australia.   I must have taken 100 photos of Roos (back in film days so it cost a pretty penny).  Once satisfied I had grabbed a few good shots I just sat and watched for a long time. 

Dung Beetles doing their thang'

I am more than inspired now to get to Tanzania at some point in the next couple of years and do a two-week minimum safari.  I need to see loins and tigers and more oh my.  On the walk back I saw lots of my personal favorite; the Warthog oh and a Dung Beetle doing it’s poo rolling thing (and yes, I got photos).

Once we got back I ate breakfast and watched the elephants at the watering hole over a leisurely cup of coffee.

Fishing on Poo Rock, Sunburn, No Fish, Village Kids! (Butre, Ghana)

fishing / Butre, Ghana

Nice, long breakfast and coffee with my beach before I head out to walk to Poo Rock.  There are few if any toilets in Ghana so each village has an outdoor spot for 'Taking Care of Business' and here it is a large rock outcropping on the beach.  We have kindly named it Poo Rock and it is now a geographical meeting point.  Read for a bit before Obehi met me to do some ‘Poo fishing’.  I am trying to keep myself covered today and to find any bit of shade I can after yesterday...ouch.  Talked to mom on the beach too which is still a crazy, bizarre act .  So use to not having contact when I travel; at least not without effort.

We found a nice large poo free area on the big rock outcropping that separates the 2-kilometer of Butre beach from a tiny fishing village on the other side.  I hung out in the shade taking pictures of sand crabs and various shells while Obehi fished.  A group of six kids from the fishing village joined us in various degrees of dress.  Some of the kids naked for swimming and others in swim trunks.  I did take note that the kids with cloths tend to speak more English and thus have been to school.  I assume to a degree it is socioeconomic.   The kids were between the ages of 8-10 I would say. 

The couple kids whom spoke English and I talked about school and if my friend was actually going to catch any fish.  The kids seemed to think anyone can catch fish at Poo Rock but in the end Obehi went home with nothing….LOSER! (Obehi says it was actually because he loves animals and didn’t want to kill a fish…he is lying)

Sent some of the kids to buy us water and snacks that we shared with them of course.  Even after all my travels the vast differences in how people live and interact still amazes me.  I guess that is why I am still addicted to travel.

Next Day

Hideout Lodge / Butre, Ghana

Even though I tried my best to stay out of the sun yesterday it didn’t work.  The walk to and from Poo Rock alone takes more than an hour.  Not leaving my sleepy shaded beach today.  Leisurely breakfast and catching up on my journal and reading I think.

Well, I ended up totally distracted by a huge church school group playing and picnicking on the beach today.  Loved watching everyone interact.  Playing soccer, gossiping and swimming.  A couple girls sat to talk to me and I made the mistake of assuming that since they were in high school I could be honest about my religious beliefs.  I told them I was spiritual but did not believe in one specific god or religion.  Not what you say in a predominantly Catholic country.  They were very sweet but went on and on about how I need to embraces the bible and read it.  I have read quite a bit of the bible actually.  Lesson learned.  Like my fake husband and fake children I must remember to have a fake religion here. 

Obehi leaving today to head back to Cape Coast but I just can’t seem to pull myself away yet.  I will take off tomorrow if my soul can manage leaving here.  One more quite night with my beach and dogs. 

Lazy Beach Walk

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Poo Rock / Butre, Ghana

Decided to walk to a huge rock outcropping I see a few kilometers down the beach.  In the end it turns out to be about 3 km each way.  Brilliant walk.  This beach is clean and pristine.  Very little trash and no one is using it as a toilet that I can see.  Once you get to the large rock out cropping that changes.  I will end up naming it Poo Rock.  The fishing village on the other side of it does use it as their facilities.  As long as you watch your step it’s all good.   If you are into fishing the fact that it is Poo Rock means the fishing is fantastic (gross but true).

Walking the beach (which took hours), writing in my journal and simply staring at the ocean took up most of the day.  Had a nice dinner of chicken and rice with a beer before falling asleep to the sound of the ocean.

Off to Beach Destinations on West Coast, Ghana

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The Beach

Heading to destinations further West toady.  Had to go hit up the ATM before leaving and unfortunately it would only let me take out 400 Cedi, which is about 190 US dollars.  Hate it when I can’t take out the max allowed. 

Going to the Hideout Lodge near the tiny fishing village of Butre.  I get the impression the only reason Butre is even known to tourists is the Hideout Lodge and the nearby town of Busua.  (later on my travels I find that no one I meet has actually heard of Butre).

We took a taxi to the Tro Tro station for points West (end point Takaradi).  Waited about 20 minutes for our tro tro to fill (2.5 cedi).  It took about 1 1/2 hours to get to Takaradi (large town that is an in-between for many destinations…. one of those places you end up in to change buses, tro tros etc).  We jumped off the tro tro a bit before the main station and grabbed a cab (30 cedi total) to Butre, which is about 30 minutes away. A good bit of the drive is a rough, dirt road through the jungle.  The trip was made much easier having Obehi with me as he has done the trip several times before so I didn’t have to go all the way to the main station and what not or ask for direction to the Hideout Lodge which got it’s name for good reason.

Once we turned off the main road and hit the dirt path that leads to Butre I knew why you have to pay a bit extra for the taxi.  Can’t be good on a car and the dust alone would require an inside and out clean out. 

Tro Tro to Butre

We past a couple small settlements along the way.  One thing that I have noticed in these smaller villages is that various aid organizations have come in and build toilet blocks for the community to use.  They are simple mud huts with drop toilet.  Ghana has come along way in the past years especially compared to most of their neighbors but the human waste sanitation is one that is still in the works.  Going to the beach or to a nearby space to take care of business is standard practice here, as most home have no toilet facilities.  The sight of these community toilet blocks has to be improving health here greatly.  The name of the organization that provided the toilets is painted on them. 

I can’t imagine Butre even being found by a traveler.  The town of Busua about 4 km away must be the only reason.  Butre is a very small fishing village with only a couple little makeshift stores that are really just someone’s home.  You can get basic things in these shops like water, snacks, even flip-flops if need be. 

view from Hideout Lodge

As everywhere I have been in Ghana so far goats and skinny dogs roam far and wide here.  Our taxi dropped us down by the rickety old footbridge that leads over a small lagoon to a beautiful, long beach.  Over it we go.  We pass a tiny lodge run by a couple Rastafarian guys with what looks to be three tiny rooms to rent and a wee restaurant.  Obehi says he hangs there often drink coffee or Milo so he can get the phone signal which allows him to use his Internet. 

Less than a half-mile down the beach we come to the Hideout Lodge.  It is a peaceful, palm tree covered space with a lovely ocean breeze.  One of those places you can sit for hours writing or reading a book.  Actually after a day I realized it is the ideal place to sit and stare off into the expanse. 

There are probably 6-8 self-contained huts with private bathroom and fan and several tree house set ups with shared bathroom.  The tree house accommodation looks to be simple rooms with wooden stairs up to the trees house.  Very cool really.

My room is lovely, it is an oblong hut painted a soft orange/pink color.  The fan works perfectly especially with the breeze from the ocean.  I do love falling asleep to the sound of the ocean.  The bungalows have a small deck area too which will be great to chill at when the beach is too much…yeah, that won’t happen. 

The grounds around the Hideout Lodge are full of comfortable chairs and tables for relaxing and the best part is all of them are shaded which thrills me.   I am quite certain I could stay here for a very long time.