Tamale or Bust via Yutong, Protection Rock, Changing Landscape/Culture and No Police Escort

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Yutong to Tamale, Ghana

Laura and I are off to Tamale then on to Mole National Park to check out some critters.  Once again I am leaving on a Sunday, which means few transportation options.  We end up in a large Yutong without AC for the 5-6 hours to Tamale (20 Cedi).  The Yutong Preacher gets on and does his thing to save us from the evil of the road. I buy a rock from him for 1 Cedi.  I hope this Protection Rock lasts through many rides to come.

 I do know that on the road from Kumasi to Tamale there have been robberies.  In fact they no longer do night buses and, in fact, if yours is running late and still on the road after dark you have to pull off until a police escort is arranged for the bus.  Big time crime is very low in Ghana and I think this police protection thing is to avoid even the chance of an incident.  I have no apprehension about the trip. 

Self Take of Laura and myself on the Yutong

It only took about an hour ½ to see the true changes to the landscape and the culture-scape.  The jungle begins to lose out to the arid savannah like terrain.  Colonial buildings are replaced with mud and thatched huts.  The North of Ghana is mostly Muslin and you can see the change in the cloths wore by the locals reflect this influence.  I am thrilled to be able to cover my face more (for sun protection) without looking out of place.  In fact, we found that women gave us positive looks when they saw us covering our faces with our scarves. 

At the half way-point we pulled into a way station with a couple restaurants, toilets, food vendors and as we where in the North a prayer room.  I noticed a huge professionally made sign with a giant arrow that said ‘Do Not Urinate Here’ (quite to the point).  After Laura came out of the bathroom she was a bit confused as there were people (all men) in this concrete room with mats washing their feet with tea kettles water.  They were washing their feet to enter the prayer room. 

Short break and we were on the road again.  Now the landscape fully embraces the dry savannah terrain covered in beautiful, majestic termite mounds.  The villages are made up of groups of round 3-4 huts with doors pointing to a center area in a circle.  Theses groups of huts are closed in with a thatched fence.  I wonder if these make up the different families within the village.

We arrived in Tamale around 6pm.  The station/market place is hoping especially for a Sunday night.  One of Rashid’s friends met us right off the bus and helped us get to an amazing hotel he had arranged for us.  Very cool to know people I guess. 

The Moon-Light Lodge is about 5 KM heading out of town but that is still very central as Tamale is not that big (even if it is the 3 or 4^th biggest cities in Ghana).  The rooms are large, with en-suite, ac, fan, TV and huge double bed.  We got all this for only 30 Cedi.  

Decided to go to the closest place to eat, which was only five minute by foot.  It is a disco light pizzeria/anything/bar.  Ended up ordering a vegetarian pizza and it was freaking delicious.  My tummy was very happy to be sure.  If you do end up in Tamale one day and are craving pizza, a beer and some serious lighting then go to Tacorammbama Pizza.

Tour Kumasi, Largest Market in Western Africa, Lost on Pimped Out Tro Tro, Best and Worst Tour Guide Ever!

Breakfast at Treasureland Hotel in Kumasi, Ghana

The included breakfast at the Treasure Land Hotel is fantastic.  They give you three Nescafe sackets, Milo, tea, toast with butter and jam, a Spanish omelet and fruit.  What up with that…. love it.

Met Laura (she is from the States and living with her Ghanaian husband in Kumasi…met her in Accra) at the hotel and we took off to tour Kumasi.   I assume that Laura knows the ins and out of this city…. oh, how wrong I was…. and the adventure begins…. Laura is the Best and Worst Tour Guide Ever…got us totally lost several times but that is what travel is all about right…the adventure of it all.  Getting there is half the fun my friends.

Kumasi is the second largest city in Ghana with a population around 1.5 million.  It feels much bigger than Accra to me.  It is a busy, active city to be sure.  Kumasi is the only modern capital of the Ashanti Region and was the capital of the Ashanti State for three centuries.  The center of town in called Adum and has a crazy, busy market place than you could and should spend hours lost in. 

One thing I loved about Kejetia Market (the central market) is the old, abandoned railroad track that is now the walking path through parts of the market.  Kumasi is the first place I have felt at all hassled by anyone but still nothing like many parts of Asia.  Kajetia Market is the largest market in all of Western Africa.  There is also a major tro tro station at the market and it is out of control.  Dodging tro tros and Yutongs is quite the feat but good fun in the maze of Kejetia Market. 

The area was so busy that I didn’t want to take my camera out to get a shot of the old, abandoned building painted three stories high with the OMO logo.  It was very cool indeed. 

We decided to go to the National Cultural Center for a break.  Took a tour of the Prempreh II Jubillee Museum (5 Cedi with a guide).  It is a tiny museum but with the guide telling of the Ashanti history it was well worth it.  The grounds of the National Cultural Center are a bit of an oasis in this noisy, bustling city.  My friend Laura spent some time shopping, as there are a number of art markets on the grounds of the Cultural Center. 

We headed up Roman Hill to a beautiful old church and happened to find a tiny tro tro station behind it and as it turns out one of them was heading our direction.  So the deal with tro tro is that you yell or hit the minivan wall or ceiling to let the driver know you want off.  For a traveler like me I don’t recognize where I want to get off so I either find tro tro that finish at my destination or I ask the driver or someone to tell me when to get off.  It usually works. 

I assumed Laura knew where we were to get off as she has done it on a regular basis for several months.  As we passed an area that looked familiar even to me she turns to me and says, “hey that’s Tech” (our stop) as if she is just showing me the sights.  A bit of time goes by and the city has turned into suburbs and lots of green rolling hills.  She has missed our stop by a good 15 minutes and we are well on our way out of town.   We ask a girl next to us and after some time figure out we are on a tro tro to another city. 

After passing through several villages I stop laughing and we tell people on the tro tro that we should have gotten on 30 minutes ago.  After many good laughs by all the pull off the road in the middle of nowhere and put us on a tro tro back to the city but it is broken down and night has set in. 

Not much time passes and another tro tro goes by and we are off again.  It was a wicked fancy tro with what looks like a stripper pole up front (my first Pimp Tro).  Our driver wearing sunglasses at night and driving like a mad man (this is my favorite kind of tro tro driver by the way) we get back in no time. 

Well after dark I get back to the Treasure Land Hotel to have a beer and tell all the tales of my day with the Best and Worst Tour Guide Ever.  Thanks you dear Laura…it was a blast.

Bloodsucking Road Demons, Tro Tro Evangelist and 'A Tro Tro Killed my Kindle'

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Heading to destinations North today.  The STC is a super nice way to do a trip to Kumasi but as it starts in Takaradi my chances of getting a seat are limited, as they don’t do pre-sales for the Cape Coast to Kumasi leg.  The tro tros leave from Tantri station not far from my hotel and right next to the Indomie Lady

Me and My Tro Tro, Takati Station /  Cape Coast, Ghana

Got a nice cramped spot at the back of the tro tro and began the waiting for it to fill.  As we waited a very round woman with a bright turquoise dress began chanting and praying on the bus.  It was so loud it actually hurt my ears.  I came to find out that the ‘dodgy’ forms of transportation in Ghana (maybe all over Western Africa) bring a religious person on to pray for our safe journey.  I have no clue what she was saying as it was in Twi but I am thinking it was something like ‘God will protect you from the blood sucking road demons…. and on and on’.   After about 15 minutes of praying for our safety on the crappy tro tro our Tro Tro Evangelist prayed, asked for donations and left.  I will experience this again and again and again.

The 3 1/3-4 hour ride to Kumasi was fun.  The driver was channeling Mario Andrei and weaving in and out of Mac Trucks and passenger buses as the rain pounded us (leaking into the cab and into my pack).  We made good time and because of our Spiritual Healing back in Cape Coast we survived. 

Arrived in Kumasi around 5, jumped in a taxi and got to the Treasure land Hotel in no time.  As usual the power was out but the hotel turns a full on generator on at dusk that even runs the ac.  Pretty cool. 

I had a small dinner and a beer in the Summer Hut (a little outdoor hut with a table and chairs).  I decided to open my Kindle to unwind as a gift to myself after a long travel day…as it turns out the tro tro ride was a bit bumpier than I thought.  ‘A TRO TRO KILLED MY KINDLE’.  I keep my important things like my camera and laptop on my person when I have travel days but didn’t really worry much about the old Kindle.  The inky, computer generated goo that makes your screen look like a book broke (I guess that would be an LCD screen). Very sad state of affairs.  Looks like I will be reading crap ass books I find along the way.  As it turns out I was right…High School Musical 2 Exercise Book is about as good as I have found.