Kick-Ass Hotel, Chocolate, Chocolate and More Chocolate! (Cologne, Germany)

The Cathedral

The Hotel Branderburger Hof is no more than five minutes from the train station, which in Cologne is a prime spot for sight seeing.  I booked into a single room with shared bathroom/shower for under $60US.  The room is tiny but more than adequate for my needs.  It has a comfy bed with super soft pillows, a closet, mirror and sink, as well as a flat screen TV, blow-dryer and baby soaps and the whatnot.  In my three days here I never had to wait for the shared toilet or shower.  

The Branderburger Hof is a family run joint.  Nice old building just like I prefer.  The breakfast (included) is outstanding.  It will be the best I have in Europe over my six weeks.  The buffet included eggs, bacon, 5 plus meat, 5 plus cheeses, 5 plus types of bread, several juices, milk, fruits, yogurts, vegetables and pots of fresh brewed coffee delivered to your table in silver pots.  The eating room was lovely as well or you could opt to eat outside and an equally charming spot.

Grabbed a map from the front desk and was off on my first day of touring around Europe.  After all the delays I was super stoked. 

I decided to do the Hop On Hop Off Bus (2 days plus cruise for 23 Euro).  I always love the hop on hop off deals.  It’s the best way to get familiar with a new city.  I typically do the full tour before starting to hop on and off.  The full tour is under two hours and gives great insight into the history of Cologne. 

As the next round began the driver told me it was going to rain later and very likely tomorrow so I decide to hop off at the third stop and do the river cruise first. 

Old Vending Machine

After the cruise I headed to the Chocolate Museum (8 Euro); included in the price in a lovely piece of Lindts chocolate to start you off right.  This museum is an absolute must if you visit Cologne.  It is very detailed and full of fun and interesting facts especially if you are into collocate…and by the way who isn’t.    It covers everything for the history, culture and impact of chocolate on this world. There is even a small Lindt factory inside the museum. 

There was a section of the museum dedicated to old chocolate vending machines.  One of them was a working model and I spent 1 Euro on a bar of Lindt White Chocolate. 

Interesting chocolate tidbit:  Mr. Lindt invented milky, creamy chocolate by accident.  He left the couching machine on over the long weekend.  A couching machine scrapes the surface and agitates chocolate while distributing cocoa butter into the chocolate.  When he came back two days later to see his mistake it was discovered that by agitating the chocolate much longer it gave it a creamy texture…and modern chocolate was born.

Chocolate Museum Store

The mini factory was super cool.  Watching the chocolate process all the way to completion.  There of course is a killer chocolate store attached to the museum.  I perused for quite sometime before deciding on a rose infused truffle.  I knew it was a mistake to buy it with the heat the way it was but…by they time I got back to the hotel hours later my chocolate bar and truffle were a soupy mess at the bottom of my bag…yes, I licked the bag clean…judge me, I dare you.

The chocolate theme does not end here.  I completed this journey at the Chocolate Museum Café…. what do you think I had for lunch?  Dessert for lunch, you are correct.  The café overlooks the Rhine River and is a brilliant place to enjoy a lunch or chocolate lunch.  I partook of the Chocolate Noir (a chocolate mousse covered in a dark chocolate layer and garnished with a yellow, cherry tomato). 

Chocolate Noir at Chocolate Museum Cafe

I had to burn some of this sugar out of my system so I walked the city for a while in the crazy heat.  I eventually jump back on a Hop on Hop off to rest my body…it started to pour and I decided to just stay on board and enjoy the cool off.  I was at the back of the bus with a British couple who where wicked hot too and loved the rain.  It must have dropped 20 degrees. 

It was about seven when I got back to my area and I grabbed a baguette with Camembert, cucumber and tomato for dinner.  I was totally done by the time I got back…love days like that.

I got a txt from The Family that they had arrived in Frankfurt.  I will meet up with them in Nuremberg the day after tomorrow.

Waffle ASAP, Train Late, After 2 Days Finally Arrive in Cologne...Guten Tag Baby! (Brussels, Belgium)

Waffle at Brussels Midi Train Station

We arrived in Brussels at 9:30 instead of 6:30, which meant more fellow passengers to share the queue for passport control.   When the cute passport control guy asked how long I was in Belgium and I told him I was jumping on a train for Cologne…he seems genuinely sad that someone would pass through like that.  I reaffirmed my love for Belgium by telling him I would be back through as I had to have a beer and a waffle.

I think I am just meant to be delayed on this trip as the luggage took a good hour as well.  My pack on my back I grabbed a coffee and headed down to the train….I was able to book my ticket all the way to Cologne right from the airport…very cool.  Trains from Brussels to Cologne leave about every three hours so I would be stuck at Brussels Midi for a couple hours but I assumed that would be the case….time for a waffle and another coffee right?

Sad Face cuz train 43 minutes late

Waffle check, coffee check…. two hours later off to the platform…where I see that my train in running 43 minutes late…. sad face…. nowhere to sit so I grab a piece of floor, put some tunes on and wait. 

I figure I might be able to gab a nap on the train but there is a baby screaming behind me most of the trip (not crying…screaming).  Even the headphones were of little help.

Hop off the train in Cologne and thankfully went out the wrong door first.  The Cathedral is right outside the Dom exit of the station…. it is absolutely breathtaking.  Happy travel thoughts run through my head as I head out the other side to where I should find my hotel quickly as it is very close to the station.

Yep, the hotel’s directions are crisp and clear and I am there in 5 minutes.  It appears to be a sleepy little street so hopefully I can keep the window open, as it is super hot in Europe right now. 

I don’t really check anything out and it is now about 5pm and I am pretty well done in.  Some food and sleep are all that happen for the rest of the day.  After all those delays this girl is thrilled to finally be in Germany; a country I have passed through many times, done night layovers in but until now could not check it off my list.  Guten Tag Germany.

Delayed in Denver, Stuck in DC, Trapped on Tarmac, Forced to Watch Hansel and Gretel,Jeremy Renner Still Hot! (Washington DC, USA)

Off again off again giggisty gig.  I hate that I had to come back especially for the reason I did but good to see the family and now I will see them in Europe too.  It will cost a pretty penny to add a month in Europe but how often to you get to meet up with your family in a foreign land…well, I guess it does happen in this family quite a bit but still.

We were two hours late leaving Denver because of air traffic issues.  I arrived in DC assuming I had missed my flight to Brussels but maybe it too was delayed.  alas, it was not to be, I got a txt when I turned on my phone still of plane that my flight was taxiing and I had already been rebooked on tomorrow nights flight.  I saw it out my window…. goodbye Big Bird…Brussels will be waiting for me tomorrow.

So that sounded dramatic but not too fused about it.  I am gone quite a while and missing a day is not a big deal.  I feel bad for those who only have a week or two.  Poor bastards. 

Jumped in line to deal with getting me to Brussels.  I could have done a flight at 11pm (5 hours from now) to London then change and get in tomorrow at 4:30 (would have been in at 7am if left all had gone well)…. but I didn’t feel like it…all that waiting and laying over.  I opted for the flight that United emailed me.  They had already booked me on tomorrow nights flight…. just 24 hours later…that’s cool.

Unfortunate since it was an air traffic issue they can't get me a comped hotel.  They did give me a voucher for a discount.  In the end it turned out that just walking in and booking myself was 10 bucks cheaper.  Stayed at the Hilton House Hotel.  Pretty fing nice.  Had a couple Amstel Lights and a wicked good club sandwich at the bar…. oh, and brie/mushroom soup…sounds odd but super delicious…. my tummy is well satisfied.

While I was sitting enjoying my grub and bevi my phone buzzed in that my flight to London was delayed by 2 hours.  Obviously they forgot to remove my notice from this flight but I was now feeling I made the right decision to just chilling in DC.  I would get several more delay messages.  Looks like I would have had a very long day if I had routed through London.

July 21

Slept like a baby last night and enjoyed a long breakfast and more chill time since I got a late checkout.

My flight to Brussels boarded on time but that is were it ends.  We spent a half hour at the gate because of air traffic issues again.  I have a feeling our Captain is super wonderful for getting us away from the gate.  We spent a long time taxi-ing to the point where our Captain turned off one engine to save fuel.  We taxied so long I watched the entire movie Hansel and Gretel…. Really Jeremy Renner…. why would you put me through that…. I am kinda embarrassed that I watched the whole thing (PS you are still a lovely little man). 

It was almost 3 hours in taxi mode but we had use of toilets and they brought us water.   This is one time it would have been super nice to be up in Business…. granted I probably would have been drunk especially since I had to watch Hansel and Gretel.  (I add journal entries to Word weeks after I scribe them in my notebook and what I actually wrote in journal about Hansel and Gretel was ‘What the F#*!k Jeremy!?)

Being back in Economy wasn’t that bad actually.  The food sucked but the seats where comfortable and I really have no complaints.  Brussels is mere hours away.

 

Visa Check, Ticket to Ouagadougou Check....I Am Outta Here! (Southern Illinois)

Pre Leaving Stuff

So while I was at the Lake House I finally got around to booking my ticket back to Africa.  Decided to fly into Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso (pronounced Wagadoogoo).  I want my frequent flyer points and I need a month layover in Europe so me thinks it is best to call United and pay the extra 25 bucks to work this one out with a real human.  Every time I go online and try to do this one myself I end up with wicked high prices…I’m talking over 3,000 bucks at best.

So finally get in touch with a United rep and off we go.  I have yet to have anyone; even in the travel business know how to say Ouagadougou so I just gave her the airport code.   I had to look up the pronunciation the first time too don’t get me wrong it’s a wonderful little mouthful and has to be the best capital name ever.

United earned their extra 25 bucks on this one.  My rep worked hard to find me a reasonable deal.  Luckily I was flexible by more than a few days of when my flights were and even what airports I came and went from.  I was cool to enter or leave from Frankfurt, Paris or Brussels.  I assume it will be Brussels, which has two flights a week to Waga.  I was right.  Managed to get the ticket for about $1900.  Sounds like a lot but a great deal on this especially in the summer.    Most of the tickets I looked at in the region without the long stopover where like 2400.  The change fee is $300; which is pretty standard anymore.  Oh how sad to not be using frequent flyer points on this one and I have to fly economy….yikes!

A Couple weeks later

Checking in online and given the option to buy double or triple miles for my flight for a mere $230 US.  Hell yes I am.  I use my flyer point and I use them well so on a long haul like this triple miles for 230 is huge man.  I should be able to do a one way business class on my next international just by doing this and with the points I still have.  So basically I just spent 230 and will be able to fly in style next time.  I will be buying on the way back too. 

Bella Bean Dog! Back from Africa for the Love of a Good Dog (Accra, Ghana to Denver, Colorado)

Bean in Nashville

Rolling Business Class again.

I must admit that rollin back in business class does make the hurt a bit easier to bare.  Sipping champagne in a fully recline position while stuffing my face with gourmet food gives me time to think about how amazing my dog is and how lucky I am to have found her.  Instead of dwelling on the fact that I am about to lose her I decide to think about all the awesome times and how much fuller she made my life.  She is 15 and old age is unavoidable.

I am back and I will get several beautiful weeks with my baby dog.  Taking a break from my trip and losing a chunk of money is nothing to me now.  I would have been absolutely heartbroken if I had not come back. 

Last Weeks with bella bean dog

Just going to give an extremely brief description of my 6 weeks back in the States (no more than two entries), as it is not much about travel and more about sorrow. 

The trip back was very comfortable as described before.  I guess if you have to travel halfway around the world to put you dog down it is made a bit easier in Business Class. 

It was wonderful to see the family when I got in.  Actually Nathan, my brother, was there to pick me up because Nalya, my niece, had been very sick and mom was at with her.  We went straight there and Miss. Nalya was doing much better.  I tried to be cool and thrilled to be at my sister’s place (and I was happy to see everyone) but all I could think about was that I have flown like 20 hours and put a hold on my trip in order to see my baby dog one last time.  

Bella had lost about ten pounds before I ever left and I would only have left her with family knowing the unlikelihood that I would see her again.  Her end is all old age nothing else.  Even if I spent 10,000 I would not be giving her more time.   She had lost another 15 pounds I would say and was it was just a matter of a short amount of time.   She did seem pretty happy but it was obvious it was time. 

The vet did tell me to try and put five pounds on her and if it could be done she might have another month or two.  That didn’t work, she kept loosing weight but it was wonderful to get those last couple weeks with her.  I pretty much never left her side and just gave her all the love I had and she gave it right back.  She knew too that time was up.

Bella Bean's 14th Birthday

Bella’s favorite place of the planet is the Lake House in Illinois, so I decided to try and get her there for her last days.  Even though she is in the last weeks of life when she sees that I am loading the car for a road trip she is a pup for a moment.  Her second favorite thing next to the Lake House is long road trips.  We even did an eight month road trip; just the two of us, back in 2008.

She was well at peace in her dog hammock in the backseat of her Outback.  I think she realized where we were going.  Like always about 30 minutes out she could smell the Lake and got very excited.  Until about 2 years ago she would have her head out the window, ears blowing in the wind when we would do this last bit of the drive.  That is not possible and she didn’t even try but I did pile the pillows so she could sniff that beautiful Southern air as we pulled in.

For the next day she had a grand time.  I had to watch her every step of the way and help her up and down but she was happy.  She had held on for this moment I think; just the two of us back at the lake.  I took her to the vet to organize her euthanasia and to get any comfort meds they thought would help.  He asked how long I wanted her (meaning days and no more than a week) and I said just give me a day so she can have visitors and one more day at the Lake.  He gave her a heavy-duty shot to make her more comfortable and we left.  Thankfully she has not been in pain anyway.  Her back-end has been going for months now and she is simply loosing feeling back there.

A X-Mas Bean

We only got one more full day and it was spent enjoying the sun and her getting all the love I could give; which was a lot.

The day we went to do it was very peacefully for her.  She slept most of the day and whenever someone would come to love on her she would sniff them from a laying position and back to sleep.  I have done most of my mourning and crying while she was still alive but man this sucks.  15 years is just not long enough. 

My dad drove us and I gave her a pill to chill her out but she really didn’t need it. She was content and ready to go.  I think if I had not taken her to the vet she would have gone on her own in the next day or two.

I sat in the backseat with her head in my lap and the windows down so her last memories would be of sweet Southern smells and her mama scratching her ears.  Who wouldn’t want that memory to take to Rainbow Bridge.   I am sure her Rainbow Bridge world is the South and leftovers from a Meat and 3!

I carried her in like a baby, said my good byes.  She was gone in seconds after the needle entered.  Peaceful as can be.

I love you baby girl.  We all love and miss you. 

For the next several weeks I spent with the family at the Lake.  It was actually really nice to have all that chaos going on around me.  Took my mind off the Bella Bean a bit.  We did have a great time. 

I did go down to Nashville for three days to see my peeps, eat good food and see if Nashville still had my heart.  It does.  Love that town.  I would like to move back on my return.

Best Bean Dog Qualities:
she wanted to be as fat as possible, she smiled, loved to bury herself in blankets, was scared of lightning, was a snuggle monkey, had to be touching a person at all times, never had to be on a leash, would take off running whenever she saw Cortney as we met her for our regular walks, she was always happy to see me, had to sleep under the covers and in bed with you, basically she was the best friend/dog a girl could ever have!

Visas for Togo/Benin, Well Endowed Generator, Back to States for The Bean Dog, Rollin Business Class (Accra, Ghana)

Bella Bean Dog

Of course I met up with Obehi again and yes he was still in the room next to me.  A new café run by a super nice German woman opened on the main drag while I was gone. It’s on the way down to the beach and called the Hayford Lounge.  Over the next couple days I would spend quite a bit of time here eating amazing food and getting out of the heat which is on the rise. 

Only back in Cape Coast for a couple days then heading back to Accra so I can get a visa or two and to cross the border into Togo.  I will miss Cape Coast.  I absolutely recommend a visit here.  I think it might be required when you visit Ghana.

A short taxi ride or medium walk is a place that has Ford Mini Vans with AC and comfy seats that head to Accra.  The price of a Tro to Accra would be 6 Cedi (US$3) and the mini vans are 15 (US$8).  The lap of luxury for me today; this would be considered a No Fanice Ride.  The people who take the mini vans are businessmen, students at university, and a couple well-dressed women.  Instead of basic cell phones they all have smart phones too I noticed.  One other interesting thing about this nice ride is that there are no Road Evangelist for a safe trip.  I guess it is no necessary to be blessed if you ride in a vehicle that meets safety standards.

I didn’t end up making a reservation in Accra and the couple places I called during the ride were full.  Oops.  These mini vans drop off a bit further from the city center.  I found a taxi and got a price set a bit higher than usual because I will have to have this guy drive me around and wait while I run into places until I find somewhere to rest my head. 

I want to stay in Osu this time.  Osu is the heart of the city dinning, shopping and nightlife.  There are a lot of expats living here because of all the food options I am assuming.  The hotels are also about 20-30% higher.  I did find a place for 60 Cedi (US$30) a night and I can’t remember the name of it at the moment.  Great rooms with bathroom and killer ac, flat screen and breakfast in the morning.  The great thing and what I have learned you look for is how big their generator is.  Even though the power is on more regularly now that Nigeria turned the power back on it still goes out a lot.  The place was well endowed in the generator department.

I will hang in Accra for about four days in order to pick up a visa for Benin and Togo.  I plan to enjoy the bustle of Osu District and maybe do a day trip somewhere…but for now it is off to bed for me. 

Oh, and I did go ahead and have dinner at the hotel…the only thing they had was chicken and rice but as it turned out it was delish.

NEXT DAY

Today I just wandered around Osu and had a long lunch with a couple coffees as the cutest little café while I watched the world go by.  Honestly nothing to write about. 

It was around 7ish when I got back and I decided to write in my journal and do some photo stuff while I kicked back with a couple beers.  There was a guy the night before having the same dinner as me but we didn’t chat.  I assumed he has working in Accra or Ghana in general as he just had that air about him…. looked to be late 40’s or early 50’s.

Tonight we decided to have our beers together and I was right late 40’s and has been working in Africa; mostly Ghana for about 20 years.   Like many Brits that have  spent a long time in Africa going back to the UK always takes adjusting to.  It seems a lot of expats just end up staying in Africa in the end.

Over the next couple days we hang out quite a bit wander Osu and Accra in general.  I did check out his new pad once and meet a couple of his friends that are also living there.  The apartments are pretty big…. huge living room, 2 bedrooms and bathroom and big kitchen…Paul’s apartment is on the second floor so he has a wrap around balcony too.  All these places are gated communities that you have to be buzzed into and an outer gate opens for you.  There is also a killer pool and bbq area.   That’s the life.  You would think that even a place like that would be reasonable in Ghana but no…. I think Paul said he pays 2,000 to 2,500 for it

Paul and I spent the next couple of days hanging out eating and chatting. 

Bella Bean at rest

I talked to my mother today and she said that Bella is super skinny and hasn’t eaten in a couple days.  After some time thinking about it I have decided to try and get back to Colorado so I can be the one to put her down.  She is my baby and knowing that I have time to get to her and maybe even spend a bit of quality time before the end makes it an easy decision especially since I have done a number of flights with frequent flyer points so far.  I will have to buy a ticket to come back and continue my journey but for now all I am thinking about is getting out of Accra and to my dog.

I found a frequent flyer flight in business class leaving tomorrow and after lots of talk on the phone with a representative (I had to trade in my Congo ticket and use most of the rest of my points) I got booked for tomorrow night’s flight.  I won’t know that I have a seat for sure until morning but there you go.  I spent the rest of the day wondering if I did the wrong thing by doing my trip when Bella was getting so old.  I realized that I couldn’t beat myself up about it.  Bella has had a spectacular life and it’s not like I left her at a kennel for two months…she has been with loving family.  I just hope I get at least a few days with her.

Paul and I went out for delicious Indian food tonight.  Actually one of the best I have had anywhere.   If I get back to Accra I have to hit this place up again.

The next day I just killed time until my flight.  Paul drove me to the airport.  It is a very odd feeling to be leaving.  I am almost two months into my trip and I am not ready for it to end but I want to get back.  Sometimes I am ready to head back from one of my big Sabbatical for several reasons.  I do love and miss my family and I am usually out of money. 

This time I am going back for only one reason; to end the life of my beloved dog. 

Rolling Business Class again.  Note to self:  I need to write a entry on how to get Business class for less than Economy when using Frequent Flyer points. 

I must admit that rollin back in business class does make the hurt a bit easier to bare.  Sipping champagne in a fully reclined position while stuffing my face with gourmet food gives me time to think about how amazing my dog is and how lucky I am to have found her.  Instead of dwelling on the fact that I am about to lose her I decide to think about all the  awesome times and how much fuller she made my life.  She is 15 and old age is unavoidable.

I am back and I will get several beautiful weeks with my baby dog.  Taking a break from my trip and losing a chunk of money is nothing to me now.  I would have been absolutely heartbroken if I had not come back. 

Good Bye Beyin, 3 Tro Tro/One Fan Ice Kinda Day, Big Blue Yutong Short Bus, Big Boobs and Yutong Preacher (Beyin, Ghana)

AND ANOTHER NEXT DAY

good bye Beyin

There are two choices for leaving Beyin.  There is a direct tro tro to Takaradi at 4am.  What, 4am, hell no.  I would rather take 5 tro tros and accidentally end up in Cote d’Ivoire than leave at 4am. 

As you might have guessed I choose the long way.  I had to take a tro tro to the ‘cross roads’ so I headed out with my pack in that direction just waiting to flag down the next tro heading my way.  Some guys at a chop bar told me to grab a tro going the other direction into the next town where I would get on another to Takaradi.  Apparently it takes longer to get to the town as you are backtracking but there is more chance of catching a ride.  Decided to kinda hang out and to just jump on the next tro no matter which direction it was heading.  The longer way won. 

The first tro took maybe 45 minute to get to somewhere.  There I jumped off and jumped on one going to Takaradi.  As usual the locals on my first tro made sure I was set up on the next one before they left.  It’s an entire country of nice people.    The next ride was a couple hours and I asked then to drop me before the station if they saw rides heading to Cape Coast along the way. 

I got dumped off on a street corner where there was a Big Blue Yutong Short Bus almost full.  Yippee for me and all on board…between myself and one other  and the beast was full.   This mini Yutong is actually going to Accra but will pass through Cape Coast.  Hope they remember I wanted to get off. 

A heavyset woman with a baby was sitting next to me.  Her boobs were gigantic.  Granted I am a wee thing and a C cup seems big to me.  Her baby was fussing because he was hungry and she was having trouble in the crowded bus with breast feeding so I helped her out a bit.  Just gave her my elbow to rest her tatas on to make things easier.  I felt so needed at that moment.  The Yutong had some ac and was only a One Fan Ice Ride. 

Oh, just remembered on big thing.  The Yutong Preacher singled me out to yell Amen.  Everyone was quite amused but I do what I am told.  It very well may have saved our lives that I did that plus I sill had my Good Luck Preacher Stone from that Big Yutong back in Kumasi.  Get me there safe and I will give you all the Amens I can muster.

Got back safe and sound, grabbed a cab to the Prospect were there is still no water and grabbed a bit to eat with Obehi.  He is like family now, the Nigerian brother I never had.