Happy as a Dung Beetle in Sh#*!t,Happy Elephants, Walking Safari, Gun-Toting Guide and all before Breakfast

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Free to be me...the life of a charmed elephant (as it should be for all)

ALL BEFORE BREAKFAST

Woke up today like an excited kid ready for their first day at Disney Land.  Before breakfast we head out on a walking safari.  Mole National Park is unique in the fact that it is the only easily accessible wildlife park in Africa.  Anyone on any travel budget can do this place.  The walking safari is less than $10. 

There were about seven of us in our group and our shotgun-toting guide was a wealth of information on the park and it’s four legged and winged residents.  Right from the get-go we came across my first ‘African Elephant’.  I have seen many elephants on my travels throughout Asia but never in the wild.  Unfortunately, in Asia, it is difficult to find wild elephants…they are all used as work animals.  What a beautiful thing to see one just doing her thing.  The people who live within the bounds of the national park respect the animals.  The influx of tourist dollars is a driving motivator to the care of the animals of Mole National Park. 

We also ran across a Reedbuck just chilling, taking in the beautiful day.  As we left the village for a trail a car drove by a spooked the elephant.   She took off trumpeting and running after the car.  I could feel the ground tremble, amazing.

We walked the savanna for a couple hours amongst Reedbuck, Bushbuck and many other antelopes.  The birds were too numerous to begin to identify but I did catch site of a few Kingfishers, which I adore.  Our walk led us to a watering hole that is viewable from the Mole Motel. 

There were six elephants bathing and playing at the watering hole when we arrived.  I couldn’t stop snapping pictures.  It reminded me of the first time I say kangaroos in Australia.   I must have taken 100 photos of Roos (back in film days so it cost a pretty penny).  Once satisfied I had grabbed a few good shots I just sat and watched for a long time. 

Dung Beetles doing their thang'

I am more than inspired now to get to Tanzania at some point in the next couple of years and do a two-week minimum safari.  I need to see loins and tigers and more oh my.  On the walk back I saw lots of my personal favorite; the Warthog oh and a Dung Beetle doing it’s poo rolling thing (and yes, I got photos).

Once we got back I ate breakfast and watched the elephants at the watering hole over a leisurely cup of coffee.

Mole here we come, Metro Mass Scam, Celine Dion and Kenny G Wanna Kill Me, and Dreams of dancing Wart Hogs

Time to get my safari on!  Leaving Tamale this afternoon for the 3 ½ - 4 ½ hours bus ride to Mole National Park via Mass Metro.  Mass Metro is the cheaper bus that has no ac but are quite efficient (but not this time to be sure). 

We mistakenly got out of the taxi at the STC bus station.   I asked the STC lady who was mean as a snake (bizarre in Ghana) where to get the Metro Mass buses and she pointed us to a teenager running towards us.  “He can help you,” she said with a glare.  I knew instantly this was some sort of a scam but decided to see it play out a bit.  This kid said the bus leaves at 2:30 but was already sold out but of course he knows the driver and can get us on.  Yeah, right.  I knew the bus leaves at 1:30 but looking at the clock realized we would end up missing it anyway.  In my head I figured we get our wonderful hotel room back, eat delicious food and take the 5 am bus the next morning to Mole.

So the scam watch begins.  We went to eat Banku at a bus station chop bar and wait for this kid to return to take us to Metro Mass to get these ‘Golden Tickets’ to Mole.  After a bit I get bored and decided to take off and go to Metro Mass to get a ticket for the morning bus out.  The kid of course sees us leaving and wants to help up with a bus.  We blow him off and go to Mass Metro on our own. 

As it turns out the bus was to leave at 1:30 but it is running very late and we still get tickets and wait with the rest of the hordes in the extra hot Tamale sun.  In the end waiting to see how this scam worked saved us two hours sitting at the hot, cramped Metro Mass station.  My theory is that the kid (who by the way is the brother of the STC attendant who said he would help us) would get us to the station after the bus left and try to get us to pay a big sum to take a ‘friends’ taxi out to Mole.  Just a guess but…if anyone knows the Tamale-Mole Bus Scam please let me know as would love to know what the outcome would have been.

Anywho, we go to a covered area with tons of people waiting under a shaded concrete area for the bus to Mole and areas on the way.  I little girl of about four named Ester befriends us as she cares for her baby brother.  She is a little spitfire and we have a grand time waiting for our very late bus.  To my horror I see a vendor selling Kenny G and Celine Dion Cd's.  Please make them stop!  Seriously. 

After playing with Ester and helping her care for her little brother for close to two hours our bus finally arrives around 4:30 pm.  This will for sure put us in after dark and the road to Mole is known for armed bandits.  For part of our journey, I assume the dodgy part; an armed policeman rides with us.  

 

Our spot on the bus were at the very back of the bus on those crappy elevated back-breaking, ass-beating seats.  The road to Mole is wicked crap and we were bounced around with whiplash force for most of the ride.  Good Fun and yes I do mean it. 

The Road to Mole took about 5-6 hours a year or so ago but major road works have slashed a good hour or two from that.  Like most of Ghana the road construction is at the hands of the Chinese. 

At one point there was a buzz on the bus about the armed bandits that strike buses coming down the road.  Nothing ever came of these whispers and we arrived at the gate to Mole National Park well after 8 pm.  The next step was to get off the bus and pay your park entrance fees (20 Cedi) then re-board the bus and drive another 10 minutes to the Mole Motel in the heart of the park.

The last 30 minutes of the journey the bus is filled with only travelers heading for the park and we met several people that we would spend the next couple days with.  Didn’t make a reservation so we were amongst the last to get a room.  Went all out on our room and got the double with ac that overlooks the watering hole to the park.  The moon was in hiding and we would not see the spectacular view over the Savannah till morning.

Before bed we did have a simple dinner of fried rice and a beer.  What a great room.  Two double beds, a big bathroom and ac that we had to turn down.  Running water at Mole Motel is from 6-8am and 6-8pm but the leave a bucket for each person, which is more than enough. 

Dreams of wart hogs dancing in my head at Mole National Park, Ghana

Tonight will be a restless sleep as I wonder what animals are wandering outside my door.  Looking forward to my safari walk and jeep trip tomorrow.  Sweet dream little warthogs.

Tamale, Bad Biking, Coconuts and Getting Drunk with Crazy Dutch Dudes!

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Laura biking in Tamale, Ghana

Today we got take away breakfast of rice and beans with hard-boiled eggs.  The dry heat of Tamale was actually refreshing and we decided to walk the 5 KM into town.  The last version of Bradts travel guide to Tamale referred to it as a dry backwater not worth going to.  That has all changed.  The roads have been greatly improved and are some of the best I have seen in Ghana.  Most people ride bikes here so there are few cars on the road.  The new roads that have been built here include double bike/walk lanes with a half-foot concrete guard against traffic. 

On our drive in I saw tucks carrying hundreds of bikes.   Every 5^th store seems to be a bike shop too.  It’s like the Amsterdam of Africa.  The folks at the Moon-Light Lodge let us borrow their bikes to ride the neighborhood but said we were not experienced enough to ride into town and navigate the traffic.  I took no offense and they are 110% correct.  My Magic Road Safety Stone doesn’t protect against crappy biking skills. 

Machete Wielding Coconut Dude

Wandered town a bit before moving towards the National Cultural Center, which they say, has some wonderful art stalls around it.  Along the way we stopped to have a coconut from a Machete Wielding Coconut Dude (discussed in a previous post).  So good. 

Not terribly impressed with the art stalls so we start to head out when Mother Nature decides to open up.  With little warning we ran to the closest place we could find…. a Rasta Bar.  The pounding rains lasted for hours.  Many drink with crazy Dutch Dudes later we taxi-ed  home. 

Tamale or Bust via Yutong, Protection Rock, Changing Landscape/Culture and No Police Escort

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Yutong to Tamale, Ghana

Laura and I are off to Tamale then on to Mole National Park to check out some critters.  Once again I am leaving on a Sunday, which means few transportation options.  We end up in a large Yutong without AC for the 5-6 hours to Tamale (20 Cedi).  The Yutong Preacher gets on and does his thing to save us from the evil of the road. I buy a rock from him for 1 Cedi.  I hope this Protection Rock lasts through many rides to come.

 I do know that on the road from Kumasi to Tamale there have been robberies.  In fact they no longer do night buses and, in fact, if yours is running late and still on the road after dark you have to pull off until a police escort is arranged for the bus.  Big time crime is very low in Ghana and I think this police protection thing is to avoid even the chance of an incident.  I have no apprehension about the trip. 

Self Take of Laura and myself on the Yutong

It only took about an hour ½ to see the true changes to the landscape and the culture-scape.  The jungle begins to lose out to the arid savannah like terrain.  Colonial buildings are replaced with mud and thatched huts.  The North of Ghana is mostly Muslin and you can see the change in the cloths wore by the locals reflect this influence.  I am thrilled to be able to cover my face more (for sun protection) without looking out of place.  In fact, we found that women gave us positive looks when they saw us covering our faces with our scarves. 

At the half way-point we pulled into a way station with a couple restaurants, toilets, food vendors and as we where in the North a prayer room.  I noticed a huge professionally made sign with a giant arrow that said ‘Do Not Urinate Here’ (quite to the point).  After Laura came out of the bathroom she was a bit confused as there were people (all men) in this concrete room with mats washing their feet with tea kettles water.  They were washing their feet to enter the prayer room. 

Short break and we were on the road again.  Now the landscape fully embraces the dry savannah terrain covered in beautiful, majestic termite mounds.  The villages are made up of groups of round 3-4 huts with doors pointing to a center area in a circle.  Theses groups of huts are closed in with a thatched fence.  I wonder if these make up the different families within the village.

We arrived in Tamale around 6pm.  The station/market place is hoping especially for a Sunday night.  One of Rashid’s friends met us right off the bus and helped us get to an amazing hotel he had arranged for us.  Very cool to know people I guess. 

The Moon-Light Lodge is about 5 KM heading out of town but that is still very central as Tamale is not that big (even if it is the 3 or 4^th biggest cities in Ghana).  The rooms are large, with en-suite, ac, fan, TV and huge double bed.  We got all this for only 30 Cedi.  

Decided to go to the closest place to eat, which was only five minute by foot.  It is a disco light pizzeria/anything/bar.  Ended up ordering a vegetarian pizza and it was freaking delicious.  My tummy was very happy to be sure.  If you do end up in Tamale one day and are craving pizza, a beer and some serious lighting then go to Tacorammbama Pizza.

Tour Kumasi, Largest Market in Western Africa, Lost on Pimped Out Tro Tro, Best and Worst Tour Guide Ever!

Breakfast at Treasureland Hotel in Kumasi, Ghana

The included breakfast at the Treasure Land Hotel is fantastic.  They give you three Nescafe sackets, Milo, tea, toast with butter and jam, a Spanish omelet and fruit.  What up with that…. love it.

Met Laura (she is from the States and living with her Ghanaian husband in Kumasi…met her in Accra) at the hotel and we took off to tour Kumasi.   I assume that Laura knows the ins and out of this city…. oh, how wrong I was…. and the adventure begins…. Laura is the Best and Worst Tour Guide Ever…got us totally lost several times but that is what travel is all about right…the adventure of it all.  Getting there is half the fun my friends.

Kumasi is the second largest city in Ghana with a population around 1.5 million.  It feels much bigger than Accra to me.  It is a busy, active city to be sure.  Kumasi is the only modern capital of the Ashanti Region and was the capital of the Ashanti State for three centuries.  The center of town in called Adum and has a crazy, busy market place than you could and should spend hours lost in. 

One thing I loved about Kejetia Market (the central market) is the old, abandoned railroad track that is now the walking path through parts of the market.  Kumasi is the first place I have felt at all hassled by anyone but still nothing like many parts of Asia.  Kajetia Market is the largest market in all of Western Africa.  There is also a major tro tro station at the market and it is out of control.  Dodging tro tros and Yutongs is quite the feat but good fun in the maze of Kejetia Market. 

The area was so busy that I didn’t want to take my camera out to get a shot of the old, abandoned building painted three stories high with the OMO logo.  It was very cool indeed. 

We decided to go to the National Cultural Center for a break.  Took a tour of the Prempreh II Jubillee Museum (5 Cedi with a guide).  It is a tiny museum but with the guide telling of the Ashanti history it was well worth it.  The grounds of the National Cultural Center are a bit of an oasis in this noisy, bustling city.  My friend Laura spent some time shopping, as there are a number of art markets on the grounds of the Cultural Center. 

We headed up Roman Hill to a beautiful old church and happened to find a tiny tro tro station behind it and as it turns out one of them was heading our direction.  So the deal with tro tro is that you yell or hit the minivan wall or ceiling to let the driver know you want off.  For a traveler like me I don’t recognize where I want to get off so I either find tro tro that finish at my destination or I ask the driver or someone to tell me when to get off.  It usually works. 

I assumed Laura knew where we were to get off as she has done it on a regular basis for several months.  As we passed an area that looked familiar even to me she turns to me and says, “hey that’s Tech” (our stop) as if she is just showing me the sights.  A bit of time goes by and the city has turned into suburbs and lots of green rolling hills.  She has missed our stop by a good 15 minutes and we are well on our way out of town.   We ask a girl next to us and after some time figure out we are on a tro tro to another city. 

After passing through several villages I stop laughing and we tell people on the tro tro that we should have gotten on 30 minutes ago.  After many good laughs by all the pull off the road in the middle of nowhere and put us on a tro tro back to the city but it is broken down and night has set in. 

Not much time passes and another tro tro goes by and we are off again.  It was a wicked fancy tro with what looks like a stripper pole up front (my first Pimp Tro).  Our driver wearing sunglasses at night and driving like a mad man (this is my favorite kind of tro tro driver by the way) we get back in no time. 

Well after dark I get back to the Treasure Land Hotel to have a beer and tell all the tales of my day with the Best and Worst Tour Guide Ever.  Thanks you dear Laura…it was a blast.

Bloodsucking Road Demons, Tro Tro Evangelist and 'A Tro Tro Killed my Kindle'

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Heading to destinations North today.  The STC is a super nice way to do a trip to Kumasi but as it starts in Takaradi my chances of getting a seat are limited, as they don’t do pre-sales for the Cape Coast to Kumasi leg.  The tro tros leave from Tantri station not far from my hotel and right next to the Indomie Lady

Me and My Tro Tro, Takati Station /  Cape Coast, Ghana

Got a nice cramped spot at the back of the tro tro and began the waiting for it to fill.  As we waited a very round woman with a bright turquoise dress began chanting and praying on the bus.  It was so loud it actually hurt my ears.  I came to find out that the ‘dodgy’ forms of transportation in Ghana (maybe all over Western Africa) bring a religious person on to pray for our safe journey.  I have no clue what she was saying as it was in Twi but I am thinking it was something like ‘God will protect you from the blood sucking road demons…. and on and on’.   After about 15 minutes of praying for our safety on the crappy tro tro our Tro Tro Evangelist prayed, asked for donations and left.  I will experience this again and again and again.

The 3 1/3-4 hour ride to Kumasi was fun.  The driver was channeling Mario Andrei and weaving in and out of Mac Trucks and passenger buses as the rain pounded us (leaking into the cab and into my pack).  We made good time and because of our Spiritual Healing back in Cape Coast we survived. 

Arrived in Kumasi around 5, jumped in a taxi and got to the Treasure land Hotel in no time.  As usual the power was out but the hotel turns a full on generator on at dusk that even runs the ac.  Pretty cool. 

I had a small dinner and a beer in the Summer Hut (a little outdoor hut with a table and chairs).  I decided to open my Kindle to unwind as a gift to myself after a long travel day…as it turns out the tro tro ride was a bit bumpier than I thought.  ‘A TRO TRO KILLED MY KINDLE’.  I keep my important things like my camera and laptop on my person when I have travel days but didn’t really worry much about the old Kindle.  The inky, computer generated goo that makes your screen look like a book broke (I guess that would be an LCD screen). Very sad state of affairs.  Looks like I will be reading crap ass books I find along the way.  As it turns out I was right…High School Musical 2 Exercise Book is about as good as I have found.

Beautiful Church, Machete Wielding Coconut Dude, Relaxation and Amazing Arcitecture!

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Prospect Printing Press, Cape Coast, Ghana (now a middle school)

Wandered the market today but it isn’t Sunday so not brilliant for finding good stuff like fabric and scarves.  I did see mummified lizards and fish…not sure what they are for (will find out that these mummified critters are put into soups and stews for flavor and can be several years old).

Uneventful day just wandered and talking with people.  Nothing to write about but I wish my eyes had little cameras in them so everyone could see what I do.  Amazing.

In the evening back at the Prospect I met a Canadian in his late 20’s-early 30’s who was here on my last go at the hotel.  I thought he must have been working here or volunteering as he had been so long in Cape Coast (at least 2 week or more).  As it turns out he is just traveling but apparently not making it too far later found out he never left Cape Coast or the Prospect Hotel on his six weeks in Ghana…WOW). 

Oh good God! It’s Celine Dion…. shoot me now please.  That crazed Canadian follows me all over the Third World I swear it.  I don’t get the fascination.  If you talk bad about her or F#*!ing Kenny G people take offense.  I guess I will have to continue to puke a little and keep my mouth shut each time one of them tries to poison my ears.

(In another week while waiting for a bus to Mole National Park I will be inundated with Kenny G and Celine Dion CDs from vendors…oh the horror!)

Next Day

fishing boasts along Ko-Sa beach, Ghana

My friend Obehi and I went to Ko-Sa; a small fishing village about 20-30 minutes from Cape Coast via Tro Tro then shared taxi (maybe 2 Cedi total). 

There is a beautiful Catholic church that really showcases the village.  The stonework has beautiful ornate flower design and the shutters and doors were a soft-medium blue that looks amazing against the whitewashed exterior.

Walked about 15 minutes down the beach to the Ko-Sa Beach Resort.  Nice, clean beach lined with the colorful fishing boats that are all Ghana.  There were fishermen repairing nets along our route.

Ko-Sa Catholic Church between palm trees, Ko-Sa, Ghana

 Arrived at the resort and got a couple coconuts.  In Ghana a machete wielding Coconut Dude finds a coconut and serves it to you for 1-1.5 Cedi.  The coconut process is as follows: 1.  The Coconut Dude cracks top with a machete so you can drink the water.  2.  He then comes back and breaks it open and creates a spoon out of part of the shell to eat the meat 3.  When you are done he retrieves the shell to dispose of…. not bad for under a buck. 

The resort is amazing and looks very expensive.  There is a huge covered outdoor restaurant with beautiful comfortable sitting area.  It is the kind of place you could spend all day enjoying.  Later I would look it up in the guidebook and it is actually very reasonable.  In fact, it is cheaper than my hotel in town.  The downside would be that you have to walk to village that has very little to offer or take spend 30 plus minutes getting to Cape Coast.  If you had your own car here it would be the ideal spot. 

My friend from Nigerian and I had a long conversation about Voodoo and how prevalent it is in Nigerian as well as in Togo and Benin.  Very excited to experience it first had; I hope.

MTN USB Internet stick:  Decided to get a MTN USB Internet stick that allows me Internet where ever MTN works (most places).  The stick was 49 Cedi and came loaded with 4G of data time.  If I don’t download or upload much I could live on that for rest of trip easy.  (In the end I will end up needing more as I did upload a bunch of pictures).

'On a Freaking Tro Tro', beach dogs, another power outage!

Oh, how I will miss these dogs.  The little one sat right under my feet for a tummy rub while I had my coffee this morning.  In the end I paid 312 Cedi for five nights, all dinners, several breakfasts and beers ($150 US).  I can handle that.  I think I may come back for the last few days in Ghana. 

Sunday is a great day and terrible day to travel.  There is very little traffic but there are also very few buses running. The only options in little, out of the way places like this is to pay quite a lot more to taxi out.  I knew this when I decided to stay an extra night so no big deal at all.

Got a taxi right from the Hideout all the way to Takaradi (45 Cedi) then jumped on a Tro Tro back to Cape Coast.  I thought I would wait a very long time for the Tro Tro to fill.  As I got in there were only four people and they all shrugged their shoulders like ‘yep, we are here for a while’.  Just as I sat down a family straight out of church and dressed in their Sunday Best filled the remaining seats and off we went.

Tro Tro:  Old, broken down mini vans that hold 14 people and depending on the driver can be a lot like riding Space Mountain at Disneyland.  They don’t leave until they are full.  The benefit to a Tro Tro over a bus is that they are always going so you don’t have to wait for a specific bus time to leave.  The guidebook says not to take them between towns but I keep finding myself bumping down the roads of Ghana of my beloved Tro Tros.  Actually I quite enjoy a good Tro Tro ride.

In a freaking' Tro Tro

Text from Obehi the day he left Hideout Lodge:  “On a Tro Tro, a Freaking Tro Tro!!”

Tro Tro dropped me right in middle of market close to the hotel.  The market is amazing and pumping on Sundays to be sure. 

Another blackout upon my arrival lasting until 11pm.  Room 115 was taken so had to move in next door to 116 and it sucks.  Shower doesn’t work, toilet doesn’t work, fan doesn’t work and I got bit to shit by bed bugs.  Ended up wearing long sleeve shirt and pants to bed to avoid bits. 

Obehi and I watch South Park on his computer until the power on it ran out as the rooms were wicked hot with not fans or ac due to the power outage.  If you walk the streets late night here you see many people sleeping on the street even if they have somewhere indoors to rest, as it is so much cooler.

Note on power outages:  I came to find out that at the end of the Month (April) the power in Ghana, Togo, and Benin should be better as the Nigerian government has slowed the oil coming here over the past year or so and that is about to change.  I have learned that whatever happens in Nigeria has a HUGE impact on these countries.  (Posting this on the last days of April and power has been steady for two days now…. the Nigerian pipeline is flowing again I guess).

Fishing on Poo Rock, Sunburn, No Fish, Village Kids! (Butre, Ghana)

fishing / Butre, Ghana

Nice, long breakfast and coffee with my beach before I head out to walk to Poo Rock.  There are few if any toilets in Ghana so each village has an outdoor spot for 'Taking Care of Business' and here it is a large rock outcropping on the beach.  We have kindly named it Poo Rock and it is now a geographical meeting point.  Read for a bit before Obehi met me to do some ‘Poo fishing’.  I am trying to keep myself covered today and to find any bit of shade I can after yesterday...ouch.  Talked to mom on the beach too which is still a crazy, bizarre act .  So use to not having contact when I travel; at least not without effort.

We found a nice large poo free area on the big rock outcropping that separates the 2-kilometer of Butre beach from a tiny fishing village on the other side.  I hung out in the shade taking pictures of sand crabs and various shells while Obehi fished.  A group of six kids from the fishing village joined us in various degrees of dress.  Some of the kids naked for swimming and others in swim trunks.  I did take note that the kids with cloths tend to speak more English and thus have been to school.  I assume to a degree it is socioeconomic.   The kids were between the ages of 8-10 I would say. 

The couple kids whom spoke English and I talked about school and if my friend was actually going to catch any fish.  The kids seemed to think anyone can catch fish at Poo Rock but in the end Obehi went home with nothing….LOSER! (Obehi says it was actually because he loves animals and didn’t want to kill a fish…he is lying)

Sent some of the kids to buy us water and snacks that we shared with them of course.  Even after all my travels the vast differences in how people live and interact still amazes me.  I guess that is why I am still addicted to travel.

Next Day

Hideout Lodge / Butre, Ghana

Even though I tried my best to stay out of the sun yesterday it didn’t work.  The walk to and from Poo Rock alone takes more than an hour.  Not leaving my sleepy shaded beach today.  Leisurely breakfast and catching up on my journal and reading I think.

Well, I ended up totally distracted by a huge church school group playing and picnicking on the beach today.  Loved watching everyone interact.  Playing soccer, gossiping and swimming.  A couple girls sat to talk to me and I made the mistake of assuming that since they were in high school I could be honest about my religious beliefs.  I told them I was spiritual but did not believe in one specific god or religion.  Not what you say in a predominantly Catholic country.  They were very sweet but went on and on about how I need to embraces the bible and read it.  I have read quite a bit of the bible actually.  Lesson learned.  Like my fake husband and fake children I must remember to have a fake religion here. 

Obehi leaving today to head back to Cape Coast but I just can’t seem to pull myself away yet.  I will take off tomorrow if my soul can manage leaving here.  One more quite night with my beach and dogs.